Tag Archives: sardines

Enomod

22 Apr

the dim sum diaries hong kong

enomod hong kongI had never really heard the term ‘social dining’ used before, yet, assuming, quite rightly, that it had to do with sharing, I knew it had ‘me’ written all over it. This is precisely the term that brand new restaurant Enomod uses to describe its menu, and therefore precisely the reason I knew I must try it.

enomod hong kong

Enomod, which stands for Enoteca Moderna, is a very cool new space on lower Elgin Street. The idea of ‘social dining’ is inspired by a cultural movement that emerged in 1930s America; this concept is reflected in the décor throughout the entire space, where literally every single detail has been thoroughly considered. A single copper pipe runs from the street-level entrance and through the entire restaurant, ‘carrying’ with it people, water, electricity and, most importantly, wine.

The space is divided into five main areas – bar, deli, cellar, lounge and dining room, each area uniquely decorated and equally inviting. Enomod’s distinctive logo, made up of a plate, a spoon, a glass and a bottle, is either engraved or painted everywhere you look, reminding you of the restaurant’s principal concerns: food and wine, the latter, house wine, served only in carafes, further heightening the casual, social feel of the place.

enomod hong kong

The Mediterranean-inspired menu boasts the freshest ingredients, making it impossible to favour one plate over another. When we asked Ermanno, the owner, and Howard, the manager, to suggest some signature dishes for us to try, they said everything was a signature dish and practically brought us everything on the menu; confident, yes, but justifiably so.

enomod hong kong

The menu is broken up into ‘groceries’ and ‘social dining’, each further categorised into cheeses, cold cuts, and so on. Between four of us gluttons, we sampled no less than 18 dishes; I obviously will not bore you with descriptions of each and every one, but I will tell you that if you’re planning a meal at Enomod, go hungry. In fact, go famished, for there is little on the menu you will not want to taste. My only criticism is that a lot of dishes come at once, which can be somewhat overwhelming.

enomod hong kong

enomod hong kong

I would recommend nibbling on some cardamom-marinated feta with dried dates to begin with, balancing out the sweetness perhaps with some 12 month-aged Serrano ham, and most definitely the Parma ham and fig pizza; this is not a pizza in the strictest sense of the word, given that it has no tomato and the base is soft and doughy pita bread, yet it will melt in your mouth and it is guaranteed to put a smile on your face, even if you might wish there was just a touch more fig jam on it…

enomod hong kong

enomod hong kong

The salmon gravalax with crackers and caper relish is divine, marinated in orange zest to excite the taste buds. Equally delicious are the Spanish paprika sardines. Each little filleted morsel of fish is decorated with a slice of lemon, which, eaten whole, together with the fish, serves to bring out the fresh flavours of the sardine and transport you to the Mediterranean.

enomod hong kong

Having never been the greatest fan, while growing up, of capers, olives or anchovies, a puttanesca, naturally, was never my go-to choice of pasta. Now, however, as I know to appreciate the finer things in life, I adored Enomod’s linguini puttanesca; beautifully al dente and wonderfully flavoursome, I could eat this every day.

enomod hong kong

The ‘Social Dining’ section of the menu is split into four categories – woods, stones, coppers and ceramics, referring to the kind of dish the food is served on. From the ‘stones’ section, the charred saffron chicken with lemon, chilli and mint yoghurt was good, but would most definitely lose in a game of trumps to the pistachio-crusted lamb rump. This incredible lamb is cooked at 57 degrees over six hours, resulting in meltingly tender meat that may well leave you speechless. Just make sure you eat the lamb as soon as it’s served, as it is definitely best hot (apply the same rule to the roasted seabass).

enomod hong kong

From the ‘coppers’ section, Enomod’s polpette are pretty special too. These are not meatballs as we know and love them; but we certainly do still love them. This very traditional recipe was passed down from Ermanno’s grandmother and comes served with the creamiest of mashed potato and crunchy pine nuts.

enomod hong kong

Even more delicious, however, and perhaps my favourite (savoury) dish of the night, were the blue mussels in white wine sauce. Just make sure you ask for some fresh-from-the-oven focaccia to soak up every drop of the sauce.

On a second visit a few days later (yes, we liked it that much), we tried the wet-aged rib eye. Whilst some argued that the charred taste was not to their liking, I think this completed the dish, giving it a crisp exterior at the same time as a juicy, pink interior. Rub on some roasted garlic and you’re in heaven.

enomod hong kong

For dessert, Enomod currently offers only two options, yet both are unmissable. The tiramisu is like no other you have ever tasted, spiked with Absinthe and spicy peppercorns, yet still maintaining that comforting creaminess. My favourite was the ricotta cheesecake with pistachio, dark chocolate chips and candied orange peel. The contrast of creamy versus crunchy, sweet versus tart, is to die for and will leave you wanting to lick the adorable jar it is served in clean.

With delicious, fresh produce, good service, quirky décor and reasonable prices (the amount of food we ate would have amounted to around $350 per head!), Enomod definitely has what it takes to be a success. Still in soft opening phase, it is packed every night, so I fear the waiting lists once everyone knows about this cool new spot…

Enomod

1/F, 1-5 Elgin Street
Central
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2555 6065

www.facebook.com/Enomod

 

Lucy’s

24 Sep Lucy's stanley hong kong

 

 

Lucy's stanley hong kong

The last time I went to Lucy’s was for a friend’s ‘tarts and vicars’ themed 18th birthday party all of ten years ago. I had no idea if it still existed, nor any recollection of what the food was like (or indeed if I had even eaten any food!), so I was very intrigued to go back to see if the praises I had since heard were deserved. I don’t mean to spoil the surprise for the rest of this review, but I can certainly tell you now that it deserves every single praise…and more!

Lucy herself hails from England, and decided to open Lucy’s in Stanley in 1994. Rather than being on the touristy waterfront, Lucy’s is hidden away in the very heart of Stanley Market – not that Stanley Market isn’t touristy of course, but you know what I mean; no tourist ventures there at night after the lights go out!

The brightly painted restaurant, concealed behind lovely potted plants, is reminiscent of a casual European café; the kind you would perhaps expect to find down a back alley of a historic Italian town. (As you can imagine, this fitted in tremendously well with the holiday feeling we were already experiencing from our ‘staycation’ at The Stanley Oriental Hotel, as mentioned in my review of The Boathouse.) It’s a very cute, tiny space that’s packed full most nights. We foolishly thought we could arrive without a reservation and were almost turned away, but thankfully the stars were looking out for us as a couple was just paying.

Our initial plan for the evening was to do a sort of restaurant-crawl, tasting one or two dishes from several restaurants along the waterfront. However, the intrigue of dining at Lucy’s beckoned, so we cut the crawl short after only one restaurant. Unfortunately this meant we had already experienced some sincerely average tapas at Mijas, which is why you might wonder why my meal at Lucy’s was smaller than my usual meals!

Lucy's hong kong

It began with a gorgeous plate of char-grilled squid, spicy chickpeas, chorizo and rocket. The flavours were so fresh, drizzled in a lovely and light lemony dressing, and the squid was cooked to utter perfection, without the slightest hint of chewiness. I loved the contrast of the subtly spicy chorizo, which completed this delicious Mediterranean-style dish.

lucy's stanley hong kong

Next up were some beautiful char-grilled sardines with beetroot, dill and horseradish. Aside from having one too many fiddly little bones that became a touch annoying, the sardines had a wonderful flavour, brought out by the fresh beetroot salad and a generous dollop of horseradish.

lucy's stanley hong kong

It seems we were on a char-grilled frenzy, as for main-course we chose the char-grilled lamb fillets, crispy basmati rice cake, red curry and green beans. Perhaps it was because we had advised our waiter that we were sharing everything, but the lamb arrived when we had only just begun our starters, meaning it was cold by the time we got round to trying it. However, this didn’t make it any less enjoyable, as the lamb was perfectly tender, and the slightly spicy red curry sauce was delicious. The crispy basmati rice cake was unusual but it definitely worked, without detracting too much attention from the meat.

lucy's stanley hong kong

Unsurprisingly, there was no char-grilled dessert option, but we did have an incredible pecan pudding with toffee cream sauce. Think of a sticky toffee pudding; now add crunchy, delicious pecan nuts…and there you have the ultimate indulgence.

Service at Lucy’s is very good, and it made me happy to know that Lucy has not just set up the restaurant and left them to it; she was in the kitchen herself that very night! Prices for food aren’t unreasonable, but add on wine and you’ll probably be paying over $700 a head for a three-course meal; trust me, though, it is 100% worth it - it must be if it’s being going strong for 18 years, something only a handful of restaurants in Hong Kong can admit to…

Lucy’s

64 Stanley Main Street
Stanley
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2813 9055

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