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Flint Grill & Bar

29 Nov

the dim sum diaries hong kong

 

flint grill and bar hong kongGiven my obsession with eating, I visit a LOT of restaurants. Often my eating experiences blend into one and if someone asked me months later what I ate at one particular restaurant, I cannot for the life of me remember. Then, every so often, somewhere new comes along that totally takes me by surprise. Flint Grill & Bar, a beautiful new restaurant located within the JW Marriott Hotel, is one such place.

Having heard absolutely nothing about Flint until I received an invitation, my expectations were fairly non-existent; I had simply read the words ‘chef’s table’ and ‘grilled steak’ and the decision was made for me to attend.

flint grill and bar hong kongFrom the moment you enter the restaurant, you forget you’re in a hotel; you forget you’re even in Hong Kong. The space is gorgeous, combining rustic with chic, modern with old, and here and there adding the odd Hong Kong touch. The wallpaper, for example, from a distance could just be coloured stripes, but on closer inspection actually represents the colourful, high-rise buildings of our city. Individually sourced antique (yet working) kitchen scales line the shelves across the four spaces of the restaurant – bar and lounge, sommelier’s table, chef’s tables and dining area – something that I immediately noticed and loved.

flint grill and bar hong kongFlint’s mixologist and bartender, Bryson Rivera, formerly at Aqua, is considered one of the top mixologists in the whole of Asia. Watching him make a ‘Feint Obscurity’ (his signature take on an Old Fashioned) was like watching a theatrical performance, complete with smoke, fire and unbelievable aromas.

flint grill and bar hong kongOnce seated on the beautiful wooden chef’s table, our feast (no exaggeration), prepared by award-winning chef Sven Heinrich Wunram, was laid before us, beginning with amberjack sashimi, house-cured gravlax, burrata salad and tomato salad.

flint grill and bar hong kongWhilst the seafood dishes were beautifully fresh, for me, being a cheese fiend, it was the two salads that really stood out. The burrata was wonderfully creamy, with a delicate, yet notable flavour, whilst the blue cheese dressing on the other salad was out of this world! Knowing how much food was still left to come, I had to refrain from scooping up spoonfuls of this dressing and eating it on its own!

flint grill and bar hong kong

The first of the main courses to arrive was the Boston lobster, baked Thermidor-style, followed by a seafood grill including snapper, more Boston lobster, red king prawn, scallops and a pot of mussels. The seafood was again wonderfully fresh and cooked to perfection. I particularly enjoyed the king prawn, once we had successfully managed to remove its shell, and I was impressed by the amount of meat on the lobster that made it worth its buck.

flint grill and bar hong kongThe fennel seed-crusted Berkshire black pork chop, served with apple compote, was juicy and delicious, the sweetness of the apple nicely complementing the ever so slightly bitter fennel seed crust. Even better, however, was the Linz Heritage prime Angus sirloin. Cooked on a lava stone grill to a perfect medium-rare, the beef was tender and tasty on its own; drizzled in Flint’s secret sauce, it was even more spectacular. This sauce, made with 30 ingredients including Madeira and curry powder, was totally different to the average pepper sauce and left a lasting impression.

flint grill and bar hong kong All of the above was served with crispy fries, creamy mashed potato with chives, creamed spinach, steamed asparagus and garlicky forest mushrooms – each of which deserved more praise than a simple side dish.

Moving onto desserts, each of the four we sampled was more impressive than the next. The key lime cheesecake with seasonal berries was perfectly light and fluffy, whilst the candied ginger ice cream gave it a little hint of unexpected excitement.

flint grill and bar hong kongThe meringue layer of the Baked Alaska gave way to mango custard and raspberry sorbet, again giving it an exciting twist from the original version.

flint grill and bar hong kong

The gigantic s’more, Flint’s take on the classic campfire dessert, was dangerously moreish, yet, surprisingly, it was the banana cream trifle that took first prize for me. Creamy dulce de leche, coconut parfait, chunks of banana and cubes of banana rum cake came together to make this dessert simultaneously refreshing yet decadent.

flint grill and bar hong kongDining at Flint was more than just a delicious experience. In each and every dish, you could taste the quality of the ingredients, and the see the skill involved in making dinner here a memorable one. Prices for starters range from around $100-200, whilst main courses range from around $180-500. After my first dining experience at Flint, I knew it most certainly would not be my last.

Flint Grill & Bar

5/F, JW Marriott Hotel
Pacific Place
88 Queensway
Admiralty
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2810 8366

www.facebook.com/jwmarriottflint

Casa Lisboa Brunch

14 Nov

the dim sum diaries hong kong

 

 

casa lisboa hong kongAlthough I’ve never actually been to Portugal, stepping inside Casa Lisboa instantly made me feel a million miles away from Lan Kwai Fong; the white stone walls, stained glass windows and rich burgundy and dark wood could easily have belonged somewhere in the Mediterranean. It’s a beautiful space that feels airy and bright, almost as if the view from the windows should be of an inviting beach, as opposed to just another skyscraper.

casa lisboa hong kongUnderstanding Hongkongers’ desire to indulge at the weekends, Casa Lisboa has recently started offering a Saturday brunch menu. There is the choice of a three-course ($180) or four-course ($250) brunch, and the added option of free-flow Vino Verde or sparkling wine for an additional $100. Both options allow you to choose each course from an a la carte menu, where choices are a plenty. Not wanting to miss out on so many delicious sounding dishes, we chose the four-course menu and shared each dish.

casa lisboa hong kongAfter nibbling on some complimentary olives and hors d’oeuvres, we began with a plate of Portuguese sausage (for 2). This is flambéed in front of your table in a cute little ceramic piggy, which builds the excitement before actually tasting the delicious, slightly spicy chorizo.

casa lisboa hong kongAlongside this, the traditional fried codfish (bacalhau) cakes were also excellent. Similar to Spanish croquetas, these little fish cakes were wonderfully light and moreish, serving as the perfect contrast to the salty chorizo.

casa lisboa hong kongFor the second course, you can choose between a soup and a salad. We decided to choose two different salads – the grilled octopus salad and the crispy suckling pigs feet salad. Although the crispy pig one was interesting and worked well with the chunks of sweet, juicy orange, it was the wonderfully tender grilled octopus that really shone for us. I also loved how, in both salads, the finely chopped salad leaves came undressed, so as not to steal the limelight from the accompanying protein.

casa lisboa hong kongSeeing as we felt as if we were in the Mediterranean, we couldn’t resist choosing a fish dish as one of the main courses. The traditional ‘espetada’, a skewer of fish wrapped in bacon, was absolutely delicious. The fish had a lovely meaty texture and delicate flavour that was enhanced by the salty, crispy bacon.

casa lisboa hong kongFor the other main course, we chose the duck rice old style, cooked in a terracotta dish. I loved the contrasting textures of the crispy top layer of rice, sticky lower layer and tender, melt-in-the-mouth morsels of duck. The garnishing slivers of chorizo completed this wholesome, comforting dish.

casa lisboa hong kongFor dessert, the traditional egg pudding was surprisingly delicious. Completely unrelated to a Portuguese egg tart, this pudding, made with lemon and cinnamon-infused custard, was wonderfully fluffy and light.

casa lisboa hong kongThe traditional chocolate mousse, although less light than the first dessert, was also excellent. It was a little thicker and creamier than other mousses, yet wasn’t too rich, and I loved the crumbled wafer topping that gave a welcome contrasting texture to the dish.

After only a couple of months since its inception, Casa Lisboa’s Saturday brunch is already proving mightily popular – there was not one empty table by the time we had finished our meal. The service is good and, considering the fact that normally one main course alone costs $250, the value for money is amazing. It’s certainly somewhere I would recommend for a tasty brunch that’s a little bit different to the all-you-can-eat buffets we are used to frequenting.

Casa Lisboa

8/F, Lan Kwai Fong Tower
55 D’Aguilar Street
Central
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2905 1168

www.ad-caterers.com

La Vache!

12 Nov

the dim sum diaries hong kong

la vache hong kongWhen it comes to steak restaurants in Hong Kong, we have the choice of Italian, Argentinean, American, Australian and even the odd Japanese restaurant moonlighting as a steakhouse. We can now add Parisian steakhouse La Vache to the mix.

Brought to us by Black Sheep Restaurants, the group behind Motorino, Boqueria and Chôm Chôm, La Vache brings a uniquely Parisian dining experience to Hong Kong’s Soho. It pays homage to the much-loved Relais de Venise L’entrecôte in Paris, London and Manhattan, specialising in steak frites and steak frites only.

la vache hong kongWalk past the giant neon cow, down the stairs into the basement restaurant on Peel Street and step into a Parisian bistro, complete with red leather banquettes, red and white chequered tablecloths and paintings of Parisian monuments splattered across the walls of the spacious 70-seater restaurant.

la vache hong kongThere is no menu at La Vache – the only thing you will have to choose is how you would like your steak cooked. Although it is often nice to have options, here, the hassle and stress of having to make decisions between equally delicious-sounding dishes is taken away, adding to the relaxed vibe that radiates through the restaurant. Obviously, this means it isn’t the ideal place for a vegetarian; so if you’re one of those, stop reading now.

la vache hong kong

The meal begins with a plate of freshly baked baguette slices and real French butter, before you are served a simple yet delicious green salad with thinly sliced radish, walnuts and a light mustard vinaigrette. As you may know, I’ve never been much of a salad person, but in this case I scraped my plate clean.

la vache hong kong

Moving on to the main reason to visit this restaurant: the steak frites. Your steak, a gorgeous cut of rib-eye, cooked just how you like it, is pre-sliced in the kitchen. The staff serve two thirds of the meat, keeping the final third in the centre of the table, above a tealight candle to keep it warm. Thin, deliciously crispy ‘frites’ are served according to the same protocol – some to accompany the first serving of steak and fresh ones served later. Everything is accompanied by La Vache’s secret recipe béarnaise sauce, the perfect frosting to each delicious bite of melt-in-the-mouth beef.

la vache hong kong

To finish the meal, an impressive trolley/tower of desserts is wheeled to your table, so that if you were ever going to say that you don’t want dessert (a sin, I tell you), upon seeing the offerings, it becomes impossible to resist. We tried, in order of preference, the éclair filled with dulce de leche, the chocolate mousse cake and the Paris-Brest. The latter, a hazelnut cream pastry, took us completely by surprise (particularly given the fact that we thought our waitress had offered us a ‘pear express’, whatever that may be), and completed what was already a fantastic meal.

la vache hong kong

The set menu at La Vache costs an incredible $258 per person. Add on desserts, wine (the house Bekaa Valley Bordeaux went down far too nicely) and service charge, and you’re looking around the $500 marker per person – a true bargain in comparison to any other nationality’s steakhouse in this town!

La Vache

48 Peel Street
Central
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2880 0248

www.lavache.com.hk

Panino Giusto

1 Nov

the dim sum diaries hong kong

 

 

panino giusto hong kongDespite being a melting pot of cultures where one can find any cuisine under the sun, one thing that Hong Kong fails to deliver is a good, high-quality sandwich shop. Besides the mass-produced grab-n-go coffee shops, you either get cheap sandwiches with days-old ingredients or overly priced sandwiches with bread so crusty it cuts the roof of your mouth.

The Italians, somehow, manage to take a simple piece of bread, fill it with fresh ingredients and make sandwiches magical. Panino Giusto, born in Milan over 30 years ago, has just arrived in Hong Kong, bringing its magical Italian panini to those who have been long-deprived of an exceptional sandwich.

With its location on the third floor of IFC, the harbour-view from Panino Giusto also sets it apart from other sandwich shops. The shop itself is decorated in the colours of the Italian flag – red, white and green – whilst an open kitchen features hanging legs of Parma ham and imported Berkel slicers, so diners can watch their panini being prepared before them.

Panino Giusto claims to serve the best panini in all of Italy (and now Hong Kong), based on its “rule of 7” – meaning they use 70 grams each of meat, cheese and bread, topped with vegetables, sauces and oils. Each ingredient is hand-selected from Italy so that nothing but the best quality ingredients are used.

panino giusto hong kongIf I were to go in order of preference, out of the five panini we tried, surprisingly, it was the Montagu (rosemary and sage roast beef, tomato, rocket, lemon and olive oil) that least impressed us. Whilst the beef was super tender, it was lacking in terms of flavour and sadly didn’t leave a lasting impression.

panino giusto hong kongThe Apollo, filled with roast turkey breast, tomato, mozzarella and mustard, was mild yet comforting, although not one I would normally order. Perhaps a stronger mustardy kick would have given it a little something more special.

panino giusto hong kongA bite into the Garibaldino and we started to understand where Panino Giusto gets its reputation. Delicious bresaola, mozzarella, tomato, rocket, extra virgin olive oil and black pepper created a winning sandwich that encapsulated all the freshness and flavours that I love about Italian food.

panino giusto hong kongOozing with melted fontina cheese, ham, tuna, tomato and tartar sauce, the ‘Toast della casa’ was utterly delicious. The bread was simultaneously fluffy and crunchy, either side of a generous amount of filling. Although I’ve never been very interested in a classic tuna melt, this gourmet version definitely did it for me.

panino giusto hong kongLast but far from least, the Tartufo was hands down our favourite panino of the lot. From the moment it was served, the rich aroma of the Alba truffle oil hit us and we instantly knew we must save this one for last. True to its reputation, the Parma ham was of the finest quality and paired well with the creamy Brie, fresh tomato and crunchy rocket, whilst the truffle oil took this panino from great to outstanding.

Aside from the namesake sandwiches, Panino Giusto also offers a wide range of starters and salads, as well as a few traditional Italian desserts, which unfortunately we didn’t manage to taste.

Prices at Panino Giusto range from $78 to $98 for a panino. Obviously these are rather absurd prices to pay for an average sandwich, particularly given the generally small size of these sandwiches. But then again, we are not talking about an average sandwich that we’d eat every day for convenience; we are talking about delicious Italian-style panini made with high-quality ingredients that we’d save for those moments in life when all we need is a little bit of simple luxury.

Panino Giusto

Shop 3077, Podium Level 3, IFC Mall
8 Finance Street
Central
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2564 7000

www.paninogiusto.hk

Mayta Peruvian Kitchen and Pisco Bar

22 Oct

the dim sum diaries hong kong

 

 

Mayta Hong KongAfter the continuing success of Chicha and Hong Kong’s never ending love for Latin American food, it was inevitable that another Peruvian restaurant would grace us with its presence before long. Unsurprisingly, it was Dining Concepts, ever the trend followers, who stepped up to the mark and brought us Mayta, Hong Kong’s second Peruvian restaurant.

Mayta Hong KongMayta, which took over what was once Blue Smoke, is a spacious restaurant decked out in a lot of wood and Aztec-style prints. It is warm and comforting, and I loved the Latin music that gave the space a cool, relaxed vibe; it was just a pity that few other people were there to enjoy this vibe, despite it being the night before a public holiday.

Mayta Hong KongAfter some tasty Pisco Sours, we began our meal with a ceviche clásico. The presentation was beautiful and the texture of the fresh sea bass paired with the crunchy red onion, chocho and cancha was spot on. Yet, taste-wise, it could have been a little more sour and a little less salty. Perhaps the chunks of sea bass were a little too big, but the leche de tigre seemed to just kiss the surface of the fish, without going deeper into it.

Mayta Hong KongI struggle to see empanadas on a menu and not want to order them. Mayta’s version, stuffed with sweet corn, aji amarillo, coriander and mozzarella, were delicious. Although the chimichurri could have been a touch spicier, it was nevertheless full of flavour and worked perfectly with the sweet, delicately flavoured empanadas.

Mayta Hong KongThe pan con chicharrón was another hit. Reflecting the influence of Asia in Peruvian cuisine, the steamed buns were similar to those of a fluffy char siu bao. Filled with crispy pork belly, red pepper chilli aioli, pickles and a sweet potato crisp, the flavours and textures married wonderfully well together, making it a difficult decision to stop eating and save space for the main course.

Mayta Hong KongThe most disappointing dish of the evening was the lomo saltado. This was a favourite of mine during the year that I lived in Peru, so it was the dish I was most looking forward to. Although the flavours of the rich sauce were generally good, it was far too salty and the beef, which should have been lovely and tender, required more than the average chewing time to break down. I did like the addition of the sweet roasted banana and the fried egg, however.

Mayta Hong KongTo finish, the suspiro de limeña was exactly what we were craving after the salty lomo saltado. Although I couldn’t work out where the meringue part of the dessert was, the creamy dulce de leche worked well with the crisp quinoa cookie, juicy chunks of grilled pineapple and refreshing olive oil ice cream to create a comforting, sweet end to the meal.

Service was good and I was pleased to see some South Americans amongst the staff, giving it a gentle push towards authenticity, even if certain dishes were lacking in it. Including an excellent bottle of Argentinean Pinot Noir, dinner for two came to $1460 – in reality what you would expect for dinner at any Dining Concepts venue. Although it might not be my preferred choice of Peruvian restaurant in town, there are only two to choose from, both of which have a completely different style and menu, so it wouldn’t be fair to compare them. I wouldn’t say a return visit isn’t completely out of the question, as I might need a fix of pan con chicharrón at some point soon!

Mayta Peruvian Kitchen and Pisco Bar

3/F, Grand Progress Building
15-16 Lan Kwai Fong
Central
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2790 0928

www.diningconcepts.com/mayta

 

The Other Side of Vegas: A Side for Foodies…

7 Oct

Las Vegas is a crazy, crazy place. Huge buildings with any number of different themes simply sprout out of the middle of the desert, creating this insane bubble like no other place you’ve ever been to. In Vegas, time stands still, people spend money like it’s going out of fashion (sometimes making a little bit back) and generally cause all sorts of damage to both their livers and their bank balances.

I had never thought to associate Vegas with good food. A recent trip there, however, showed me that there certainly is more to Vegas than just the gambling, and food is definitely a huge focal point. Here are my thoughts on a few of the restaurants I was lucky enough to dine at:

Tom Colicchio’s Heritage Steak

This rustic steak joint, brought to us by New York chef and host of Top Chef, Tom Colicchio, had only been open a mere couple of weeks at the time we visited. We stumbled across it by chance, with no expectations, yet we were incredibly impressed by everything from the service, to the setting to the delicious food.

Heritage Steak prides itself on its wood-burning ovens and charcoal grills – basically anything with an open flame – to achieve that gorgeous smoky flavour that adds to the beauty of eating meat. You can see these open flames through the open kitchen at the back of the room, creating a warm and comforting atmosphere.

tom colicchio's heritage steak las vegas

For starters, definitely try the grilled octopus and the grilled lamb ribs, both of which are unbelievably tender and delicious. If there are enough of you, and you’re happy to share, also give the wood-roasted peaches a try.

tom colicchio's heritage steak las vegas

The steaks at Heritage Steak are a must; it is a steakhouse after all! I was equally impressed by the roasted market fish (sea bass on the day we went), stuffed with roasted tomatoes and topped with a lovely, light zucchini relish. Definitely the best fish dish I’ve had in a long, long time.

Prices are on a par with Hong Kong, but service is a million times better. Granted, you are expected to tip (and heavily) for this service, but when it’s worth paying, it’s really worth paying.

The Mirage, 3400 Las Vegas Boulevard South, Las Vegas, Nevada, USA
Tel: +1 702-791-7111
http://www.mirage.com/restaurants/heritage.aspx#

Kumi

kumi las vegas mandalay bay

Kumi, a brand new restaurant at the Mandalay Bay, serves classic Japanese favourites with its own unique “Korean-American” twist created by renowned chef Akira Back. Aside from the expansive sushi bar seating, the gorgeous design in the restaurant, with a tree in the centre of the circular room and a painted backdrop of beautiful cherry blossoms, makes you feel as if you were in a lovely Japanese garden.

kumi las vegas mandalay bay

Standout appetizers were the crispy rice with blackened tuna and ‘screaming O sauce’, the rock shrimp tempura and the gyoza.

Of the signature rolls, the kumikaze, made with snow crab and Cajun spiced salmon, was good, but if there’s one dish you must order, it’s the pop rockin’. Made with spicy tuna, crab, salmon, avocado and pop rocks, these tasty bites pop and fizz in your mouth as you eat them, creating a unique multi-sensory experience.

Despite the majority of the food being excellent, service was definitely not. It’s either several dishes coming at once, or impossible to get any service – there’s no happy medium. We found the staff a little arrogant and rude, right until the end of the meal, when of course they changed their tone in the hope of getting a big tip; they didn’t.

Mandalay Bay Resort and Casino, 3950 Las Vegas Boulevard South, Las Vegas, Nevada 89119, USA
Tel: +1 702-632-7777
http://kumilasvegas.com/

STK

It was actually our friendly waiter at Heritage Steak who recommended this place to us, earning him even more brownie points. STK is not just a steakhouse (although evidently that is its main selling point); it is a bar, a hangout, and generally a cool place to see and be seen. With fun lounge music blaring and excellent food, I can see why this place is jam-packed even on a Monday night.

stk las vegas cosmopolitan

Before moving on to the awesome, succulent steaks, we shared a beautiful foie gras waffle with juniper berries and foie gras cream. To say it was heavenly would be an understatement.

stk las vegas cosmopolitan

My 7-ounce fillet medallion was divine, cooked to tender perfection. Just in case the foie gras starter isn’t rich enough for you, you’re welcome to add a slab of foie gras, or even foie gras butter to your steak. Personally, I opted for some spicy chimichurri. Sides of Parmesan truffle fries, creamed spinach and spiced maple carrots were the cherry on top, particularly the latter.

stk cosmopolitan las vegas

Of the multiple delicious-sounding dessert options, it was the bread pudding with English toffee, salted caramel and cap’n crunch that took our fancy. Cap’n Crunch, when I was even littler, was my favourite breakfast cereal, and here it added a welcome crunchiness to a wonderfully decadent, gooey dessert.

Prices, again, are not cheap, averaging at around USD150 per head including a beautiful bottle of wine. Service is tip-worthy, making it even pricier, but it’s definitely a restaurant/bar/hang-out I would recommend to anyone visiting Vegas (or LA, Miami, Atlanta, New York or even London for that matter, as apparently there are branches there too!).

Cosmopolitan Hotel, 3708 Las Vegas Boulevard South, Las Vegas, Nevada 8910, USA
Tel: +1 702-698-7990
http://www.cosmopolitanlasvegas.com/taste/restaurant-collection/stk.aspx

The Cheesecake Factory

cheesecake factory henderson nevada

We actually went to The Cheesecake Factory in Henderson, about a 15-minute drive from the Strip, but it is in fact a chain that can be found all over the US.

cheesecake factory

The minute I saw the name of the restaurant, I insisted we needed to go there, resulting in negative grumbles from the other half. Eventually, he came around to the idea and we found ourselves waiting for a table and gazing longingly at a counter full of mountain-high cheesecakes.

cheesecake factory henderson nevada

Looking around the room at the dishes our fellow diners were being served, we quickly discovered that portion sizes at The Cheesecake Factory are as big as the menu itself: huge. Therefore, after a starter of hummus and pita, we decided to share a main course of crusted chicken romano – Parmesan-crusted chicken in a light tomato sauce. Although we swapped the pasta with which it is originally served for sweet potato fries, the portion size was more than sufficient for the two of us.

You can’t go to the Cheesecake Factory without trying a slice of cheesecake, and that is an indisputable fact. There are over 30 different kinds, and each slice is closer to three slices of an ordinary cheesecake, but this is no ordinary cheesecake. We tried the caramel pecan turtle one, and although a few spoonfuls was enough to give us a sugar-high, it was definitely worth it.

Prices are reasonable (particularly if you’re sharing dishes), and service is efficient. It’s not somewhere I could eat every day, but I think it’s worth a trip, even if just for the novelty factor!

160 S Green Valley Parkway, Henderson, Nevada 89052, USA
Tel: +1 702-207-6372
Other locations can be seen here: http://www.thecheesecakefactory.com/

One Harbour Road

23 Sep

4_ohview from one harbour road hong kong

My staycation at the Grand Hyatt earlier this summer already proved that the hotel could put on a good French-style buffet and seriously good Italian fare. I was recently invited back to put its dim sum at One Harbour Road to the test.

One Harbour Road, a duplex Cantonese restaurant with incredible views of the harbour, is a chic representation of a 1930s style Chinese mansion with high ceilings, elegant wooden furnishings and plush carpeted flooring. Plants and water features give it a calming ambience that sets the mood for the entire meal.

one harbour road hong kong

As there were only two of us and we wanted to try as much as possible, we were given just the right amount of each dish; these photos are therefore not all representative of the actual portion sizes. We began with steamed fresh crabmeat dumplings with bamboo shoots and Chinese parsley. These were similar to the much loved har gao, but with a more tender, juicy interior, serving as the perfect contrast to the crispy deep-fried spring rolls. Whilst some restaurants fill these with any scraps of vegetables they can find, these were bursting with fresh, delicious prawns.

one harbour road hong kong

The pan-fried rice flour rolls (cheung fun) was a generously-sized portion and had all the components to make this a winning dish, particularly when smothered in the accompanying sesame and hoisin sauces.

one harbour road hong kong

Char siu bao and xiao long bao are must orders at any dim sum restaurant and One Harbour Road’s versions were definitely up there amongst the best I’ve tasted. The bun on the char siu bao was perfectly fluffy, giving way to succulent, sweet barbecued pork that was neither too fatty nor too dry. The xiao long bao’s skin was also just right – neither too thick and chewy nor too thin and delicate.

one harbour road hong kong

A dish I would not have picked but would now certainly order again was the deep-fried black mushrooms with osmanthus sauce. The earthy flavour of the mushrooms was beautifully complemented by the sweet, almost caramelised batter encasing them, making them without a doubt one of my favourite dishes of the day.

one harbour road hong kong

Again a dish that would never have caught my eye on the menu was the crabmeat dumpling in broth topped with bird’s nest and Yunnan ham. Bird’s nest is something that has never really interested me, yet this dish, with its wonderfully delicate flavour and interesting medley of textures, made me finally begin to understand its allure.

one harbour road hong kong

Last of the savouries was a tomato stuffed with kidney beans in sweet and sour sauce – something I have never before seen on a Cantonese restaurant’s menu. It was certainly an interesting dish, although the sweet and sour sauce, of which I have never really been a fan, was a little too much for me.

one harbour road hong kong

We ended our meal with three desserts - Walnut cream with sesame dumplings, chilled mango pudding and chilled fresh milk and young ginger pudding, each of which were light and delicious. One Harbour Road is famous for its mango pudding, apparently to the extent that one Japanese tourist, when told that the restaurant had run out of said mango pudding, began to cry hysterically! I wouldn’t say I’d go as far as to cry if it weren’t available, but it was definitely an excellent mango pudding.

Service, as throughout the entire hotel, was exceptional. Prices are obviously significantly higher than dining at any regular dim sum restaurant… but then again this is the Grand Hyatt, the quality is like no other and you are dining with quite a spectacular view.

One Harbour Road

7-8/F, 1 Harbour Road
Wan Chai
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2584 7722

www.hongkong.grand.hyatt.com/en/hotel/dining/OneHarbourRoad

Souvla

2 Sep

the dim sum diaries hong kong

souvla hong kong

Concept Creations, the group behind Tapeo, Frites and Chicha really knows how to create a winning restaurant. This time they have brought us Souvla, a contemporary Greek restaurant in the heart of Lan Kwai Fong.

souvla hong kong

The restaurant, which was once British ‘gastropub’ Harrington’s, is completely unrecognisable. The CC team have done wonders with the space, completely transforming it into a haven of colours and textures that emanate the restaurant’s concept, whilst avoiding all kinds of common Greek stereotypes. A honeycomb feature runs throughout the restaurant as a homage to the Greeks being the finest honey-producers in the world; beautiful marble on the bars and tabletops adds a touch of ‘Ancient Greece’; whilst an open flame spit (alluding to the style of cooking referred to in the restaurant’s name) is on display for all to see. Lastly, a stone motif, relating to the hot stones used for the ‘souvla’, also runs throughout the restaurant and along both bars.

souvla hong kongJust as the décor is somewhat unexpected, so too is the menu design, featuring characters from Greek mythology and bringing them to life as part of the restaurant’s theme – a feast for the wedding of Hercules to Medusa!

Unsure where to start with the menu, as everything sounded delicious, we let owner Viviano Romito go crazy and do the ordering for us, whilst we nibbled on a plate of delicious warm marinated olives and sipped on some Metaxa-fuelled cocktails – the Son of a Gun and Souvla Sour, Souvla’s take on a Mojito and Pisco Sour respectively, were particularly good.

souvla hong kong

No Greek feast is complete without some pita and dips to kick the evening off. Souvla’s homemade tzatziki and taramasalata were incredibly fresh and flavoursome, serving as the perfect accompaniment to the freshly baked, insanely fluffy pita.

souvla hong kong

Following this came a saganaki – a huge slab of salty kefalograviera cheese served on a hot iron pan with fig marmalade and chunks of lemon. If I have told you how much I love halloumi before, I can now tell you that this cheese was even more delicious and I could happily have chowed down the entire slab myself.

souvla hong kong

The grilled scallops with almond skordalia, manouri cheese and tsoureki crumbs were divine. The bouncy, perfectly cooked scallops paired beautifully with the creamy skordalia, and although the flavours were very simple and light, they were fantastic.

souvla hong kong

As an alternative to the classic lahanodolmathes, Souvla serves a deconstructed version – you get a bowl of minced beef and another of steamed cabbage for you to create your own rolls; a modern Greek take on the san choi bao, and a damn good one at that!

souvla hong kong

For main courses, to accompany a gorgeous Cyrpriot Salata (an incredible and colourful mix of pulses, grains, nuts and currents, topped with honey, yoghurt and pomegranate), we tried the grilled Glacier 51 Toothfish and the slow-cooked lamb. The former, a highly prized, sustainable fish from the coast of Heard Island in Antarctica, had a beautiful, firm texture and a delicate yet delicious flavour. Souvla is the only place in Hong Kong as of yet to serve this fish, and apparently, as it is fished so far off the coast of Australia, in some of the wildest, pirate-ridden seas on Earth, it isn’t exactly an easy catch.

souvla hong kongThe lamb, which is first cooked sous-vide before being roasted over a low heat for two hours, was incredibly tender and full of flavour, served with creamy Greek yoghurt. If you have to order one thing and one thing only at Souvla, definitely order this lamb.

souvla hong kong

Having heard so much about them, we tried one of each of the signature souvas – pita bread cones stuffed with chips, herbs, onions and either chicken, pork, goat or soft-shell crab. Despite the fillings occasionally being a little on the stingy side, the flavours were delicious and the pita was again wonderfully fluffy. I think one of these would be the perfect late night snack after a few Son of a Guns.

souvla hong kong

Once we’d found that second stomach, our first dessert was a bowl of Loukoumades – a form of Greek doughnuts, smothered in syrup and cinnamon, sprinkled with walnuts and served on a bed of yoghurt. Despite being deep-fried and probably the least healthy thing we’d eaten so far, they still seemed lovely and light.

souvla hong kong

The Golden Greek Time, a play on Australia’s popular ice cream dessert, the Golden Gaytime, was quite possibly the best thing I’ve eaten in a long time. A ball of vanilla and chocolate ice cream, made with mastic, to achieve that chewy texture present in Greek ice cream, was encased in honey-nut cornflakes, served with salted caramel sauce and a broken Crunchie bar. Need I say more?!

Including a round of cocktails and a fairly expensive bottle of delicious Pinot Noir, the bill amounted to $800 a head, including a tip (service charge is not included). It’s not a cheap meal (if you eat as much as we did), but you will certainly leave feeling full to the brim and eager to return soon for another helping of tender lamb and Golden Greek Time…

Souvla

1/F, Ho Lee Commercial Building
40 D’Aguilar Street
Central
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2522 1823 or Text: +852 9285 8846

www.conceptcreations.hk

Tokio Joe

27 Aug

the dim sum diaries hong kong

 

 

tokio joe hong kongLocated slap bang in the centre of Lan Kwai Fong, Tokio Joe has been pleasing its customers with its “stylish Japanese food” for over a decade, always managing to fill its seats, no matter what day of the week it is.

Having been only once in my three years back in Hong Kong, an invitation arose and I jumped at the chance to go again and see if it truly was as good as I remembered.

The space, despite being larger than I initially anticipated, remains cosy and effortlessly chic, with dark wood, dim lighting and of course the central sushi bar, where diners can watch the sushi-chefs-cum-artists hard at work.

tokio joe hong kong

To ease us in to the meal, we were first presented with a bowl of lightly salted edamame and a tomato salad drizzled in a tangy, garlicky soy sauce. The tomatoes were wonderfully fresh and ripe, making this very simple dish shine, before we had even tried anything from the menu.

tokio joe hong kong

Continuing with the salad theme, our first starter proper was a toro usu salad. Wafer-thin slices of super tender tuna belly were served with fresh, crunchy leaves and a light balsamic vinaigrette, creating an interesting blend of eastern and western flavours that came together perfectly.

tokio joe hong kong

Following this, a beautiful sashimi and sushi combo was laid before us, including sweet prawns, salmon and hamachi sashimi, uni sushi, tuna stuffed with spicy avocado sauce and spicy sushi cakes. Each bite was incredibly fresh and light, highlighting the sheer quality of Tokio Joe’s seafood. Whilst we were a little disappointed by the mildness of the ‘spicy’ avocado sauce, the spicy sushi cake, made with minced salmon, tuna and spicy rice, was by far our favourite.

tokio joe hong kong

The spicy toro tartar, justifiably one of Tokio Joe’s most popular dishes, was incredible. Little parcels of finely minced tuna, crunchy flakes and spicy sauce are wrapped up in crisp lettuce leaves, creating an explosion of flavours and textures that will more than wow you.

tokio joe hong kongMoving onto the main courses, the kelp-grilled sea bass, another of the restaurant’s signature dishes, was divine. The fish, marinated in miso, was remarkably tender and had a subtle, sweet flavour, enhanced by the slightly spicy sichiminaise. I wasn’t such a fan of the pickled carrot, but it was probably designed as more of a garnish than part of the dish (greedy? Me?).

tokio joe hong kong

The beef goma fumi, grilled beef served in a sweet sesame sauce, was also delicious, even if a couple of pieces of beef were a little on the chewy side.

tokio joe hong kongIn case we hadn’t eaten enough yet, we decided to order a half portion of the house special rolls (soft shell crab, avocado and crab roe) and the dynamite rolls (similar but with tempura shrimp). Both varieties, although rather alike, packed a lot of flavour yet were light and far too easy to eat, despite almost bursting at the seams.

tokio joe hong kongDessert was not your predictable green tea or sesame flavoured ice cream – instead, it was a refreshing medley of fresh fruit, nate de coco and pineapple and mandarin sorbets, each beautifully presented in its own skin and serving as the perfect end to a wonderful meal.

The excellent service at Tokio Joe comes with a smile, even when the restaurant is at capacity. Prices, including a carafe of sake, might give you a little shock (approximately $800+ per person), but for the quality and flavour of the food, they won’t be enough to scare you away from a repeat visit.

Tokio Joe

16 Lan Kwai Fong
Central
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2525 1889

www.tokiojoe.com

Porto Fino

23 Aug

the dim sum diaries hong kong

porto fino hong kongEveryone loves the Mediterranean - the beautiful sea, the blue skies, the friendly people, the lively yet laid back feel… but most importantly, the food. There is always something wholesome and comforting about Mediterranean food that is vibrantly colourful and laced with rich olive oil. Porto Fino, a newish restaurant and grocery store on Old Bailey Street is bringing the flavours of Spain, Italy and Portugal to Hong Kong.

porto fino hong kongThe space is inviting, with an open front overlooking the street, perfect for people watching. The entrance is lined with freshly baked bread, before you step into the colourful grocery store, where shelves are stacked full of pastas, sauces, coffee and other delicious treats. Entering further into the restaurant, leads you to a lovely, bright space that makes the most of the long yet narrow room.

porto fino hong kongWe began our meal with a generous portion of char-grilled chorizo. These wafer-thin slices of authentic Spanish chorizo, served on crusty bread, were rich and salty, without being overly so, and went down a treat with our berry caiproskas.

porto fino hong kongTo follow came some perfectly bouncy grilled scallops, topped with carrot puree, raisins and bacon. The flavour of the scallops alone was a little on the mild side, yet thankfully the salty bacon and sweet raisins completed the dish, bringing out some deeper flavours.

For no other reason than because we were curious (and perhaps a touch gluttonous too), we ordered a third starter of mushroom and truffle oil soup. Decadent and rich are the only words to describe this soup; the moment it was laid before us, the strong, heavenly aroma of the truffle oil filled the air. Unfortunately, the richness outweighed the deliciousness and we could barely make a dent in our respective bowls.

porto fino hong kongMoving on to main courses, one of Porto Fino’s signature dishes is the Espetada, a huge beef and tiger prawn skewer, suspended from a gigantic metal frame. Despite asking for medium-rare beef and getting closer to well done, it was still beautifully tender, pairing well with the slightly crispy braised rice and the equally tender and fresh prawn, making it completely deserved of its signature status.

porto fino hong kongMy personal favourite, however, was the grilled ‘bacalhau’. Cod, done well, isn’t widely found in HK, yet this one, with its lovely flaky, delicate texture, generously drizzled in olive oil and served with ‘punched’ potatoes (crisp on the outside and wonderfully fluffy on the inside), sautéed asparagus and slightly tart confit cherry tomatoes, was delicious, and definitely one I would order again.

porto fino hong kong

Dessert was a girl-sized (as requested) portion of warm chocolate brownie. This flourless, gooey dessert was more of a cake than a brownie (and a very rich one at that, made with 85% chocolate), yet it served its purpose of providing a sweet end to a pleasant meal. The cinnamon-topped vanilla ice cream and salted caramel sauce was a bonus, even if the berry sauce was a touch unnecessary.

Service at Porto Fino is exceptional, to the point where you start to wonder if perhaps it is a little too efficient, with waiters almost watching your every move. With its relaxed, lounge-like atmosphere and scrumptious Mediterranean ingredients just a stone’s throw away from bustling Soho, Porto Fino offers something different to so many HK restaurants. Therefore, hopefully, despite its $500+ price tag per head, it might just stand a chance of sticking around.

Porto Fino

28 Old Bailey Street
Central
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2668 0430

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