Tag Archives: puttanesca

Enomod

22 Apr

the dim sum diaries hong kong

enomod hong kongI had never really heard the term ‘social dining’ used before, yet, assuming, quite rightly, that it had to do with sharing, I knew it had ‘me’ written all over it. This is precisely the term that brand new restaurant Enomod uses to describe its menu, and therefore precisely the reason I knew I must try it.

enomod hong kong

Enomod, which stands for Enoteca Moderna, is a very cool new space on lower Elgin Street. The idea of ‘social dining’ is inspired by a cultural movement that emerged in 1930s America; this concept is reflected in the décor throughout the entire space, where literally every single detail has been thoroughly considered. A single copper pipe runs from the street-level entrance and through the entire restaurant, ‘carrying’ with it people, water, electricity and, most importantly, wine.

The space is divided into five main areas – bar, deli, cellar, lounge and dining room, each area uniquely decorated and equally inviting. Enomod’s distinctive logo, made up of a plate, a spoon, a glass and a bottle, is either engraved or painted everywhere you look, reminding you of the restaurant’s principal concerns: food and wine, the latter, house wine, served only in carafes, further heightening the casual, social feel of the place.

enomod hong kong

The Mediterranean-inspired menu boasts the freshest ingredients, making it impossible to favour one plate over another. When we asked Ermanno, the owner, and Howard, the manager, to suggest some signature dishes for us to try, they said everything was a signature dish and practically brought us everything on the menu; confident, yes, but justifiably so.

enomod hong kong

The menu is broken up into ‘groceries’ and ‘social dining’, each further categorised into cheeses, cold cuts, and so on. Between four of us gluttons, we sampled no less than 18 dishes; I obviously will not bore you with descriptions of each and every one, but I will tell you that if you’re planning a meal at Enomod, go hungry. In fact, go famished, for there is little on the menu you will not want to taste. My only criticism is that a lot of dishes come at once, which can be somewhat overwhelming.

enomod hong kong

enomod hong kong

I would recommend nibbling on some cardamom-marinated feta with dried dates to begin with, balancing out the sweetness perhaps with some 12 month-aged Serrano ham, and most definitely the Parma ham and fig pizza; this is not a pizza in the strictest sense of the word, given that it has no tomato and the base is soft and doughy pita bread, yet it will melt in your mouth and it is guaranteed to put a smile on your face, even if you might wish there was just a touch more fig jam on it…

enomod hong kong

enomod hong kong

The salmon gravalax with crackers and caper relish is divine, marinated in orange zest to excite the taste buds. Equally delicious are the Spanish paprika sardines. Each little filleted morsel of fish is decorated with a slice of lemon, which, eaten whole, together with the fish, serves to bring out the fresh flavours of the sardine and transport you to the Mediterranean.

enomod hong kong

Having never been the greatest fan, while growing up, of capers, olives or anchovies, a puttanesca, naturally, was never my go-to choice of pasta. Now, however, as I know to appreciate the finer things in life, I adored Enomod’s linguini puttanesca; beautifully al dente and wonderfully flavoursome, I could eat this every day.

enomod hong kong

The ‘Social Dining’ section of the menu is split into four categories – woods, stones, coppers and ceramics, referring to the kind of dish the food is served on. From the ‘stones’ section, the charred saffron chicken with lemon, chilli and mint yoghurt was good, but would most definitely lose in a game of trumps to the pistachio-crusted lamb rump. This incredible lamb is cooked at 57 degrees over six hours, resulting in meltingly tender meat that may well leave you speechless. Just make sure you eat the lamb as soon as it’s served, as it is definitely best hot (apply the same rule to the roasted seabass).

enomod hong kong

From the ‘coppers’ section, Enomod’s polpette are pretty special too. These are not meatballs as we know and love them; but we certainly do still love them. This very traditional recipe was passed down from Ermanno’s grandmother and comes served with the creamiest of mashed potato and crunchy pine nuts.

enomod hong kong

Even more delicious, however, and perhaps my favourite (savoury) dish of the night, were the blue mussels in white wine sauce. Just make sure you ask for some fresh-from-the-oven focaccia to soak up every drop of the sauce.

On a second visit a few days later (yes, we liked it that much), we tried the wet-aged rib eye. Whilst some argued that the charred taste was not to their liking, I think this completed the dish, giving it a crisp exterior at the same time as a juicy, pink interior. Rub on some roasted garlic and you’re in heaven.

enomod hong kong

For dessert, Enomod currently offers only two options, yet both are unmissable. The tiramisu is like no other you have ever tasted, spiked with Absinthe and spicy peppercorns, yet still maintaining that comforting creaminess. My favourite was the ricotta cheesecake with pistachio, dark chocolate chips and candied orange peel. The contrast of creamy versus crunchy, sweet versus tart, is to die for and will leave you wanting to lick the adorable jar it is served in clean.

With delicious, fresh produce, good service, quirky décor and reasonable prices (the amount of food we ate would have amounted to around $350 per head!), Enomod definitely has what it takes to be a success. Still in soft opening phase, it is packed every night, so I fear the waiting lists once everyone knows about this cool new spot…

Enomod

1/F, 1-5 Elgin Street
Central
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2555 6065

www.facebook.com/Enomod

 

Da Mario, London

17 Jul

 

 

Da Mario London

After a culture-filled day out in London, we were eager to find somewhere to eat near the Threesixty Theatre in South Ken. Having never been, I was told I must try Da Mario on Gloucester Road.

The minute we entered from the cold July drizzle (a clear reminder of why I left England in the first place), we felt at home; it was warm, it was cosy and the incredibly friendly waiters treated us as if they’d known us forever. Even with no reservation, a few sips of a drink at the bar downstairs was all the time we had to wait until a table became available in the slightly more lively upstairs dining area.

Da Mario is an institution that I’m surprised I’ve never been to. It was opened in the sixties by Mario, a passionate Italian chef from Naples, who wanted to bring the delicious flavours of his hometown to London. Apparently it was a favourite of Princess Diana’s too; photos and paintings of her now line the walls. Sadly, Mario passed away in 2007, yet his son Marco continues the legacy, serving up authentic Neapolitan cuisine in a comforting, comfortable surrounding.

According to a dedication on the menu, Mario developed the recipe for the pizza sauce at Pizza Express. We had actually been there for lunch, so we were definitely honouring Mario and his delicious pizzas.

Da Mario London

Speaking of pizzas, we had already had more than our share for lunch, yet we insisted on at least trying the Cestino di pane ai quattro formaggi – which was basically a tomato-less pizza. The base was perfect: thin, rustic and delicately flavoured, meaning the rich flavours of the gorgeous Italian cheeses really stood out.

Da Mario London

The Gamberoni aglio olio e peperoncino, three beautiful grilled prawns drizzled with olive oil, thin slivers of garlic and chilli flakes, were delicious and succulent, whilst the garlic and chilli oil also served as a perfect dip for the bread.

Melanzane parmigiana is one of my favourite Italian dishes, and this one certainly didn’t disappoint: delicious layers of aubergine, Parmesan, tomato and basil, baked to golden and gooey perfection.

Da Mario London

My main course of Papardelle adriatico – cherry tomatoes, garlic, white wine, fresh parsley and swordfish strips on a bed of rocket – was divine. Both the pasta and the sauce were wonderfully fresh and light. However, whilst I thought the swordfish would add to the dish, it was actually a little on the dry side and I think the dish would have been perfect without it.

Da Mario London

The Parpardelle branzino had the same sauce as the above, but instead of the swordfish, it was topped with a lovely fillet of seabass that was neither dry nor unnecessary; rather it completed the already delicious dish.

Da Mario London

An original request for a Pasta da Marco (which, although is not on the menu, is apparently a puttanesca) was confused with a Rigatoni da Mario, more of a carbonara-style pasta. The waiters were hugely apologetic, offering to change it as quickly as possible, but we stuck with it and were pleasantly surprised. Although it was in a cream sauce, it was not too heavy, and the addition of chopped basil kept it fresh.

All thoughts of dessert were cast aside after our veritable feast and fears of missing the last train home, although of course we couldn’t turn down a glass of limoncello to round off the delicious meal!

Our total bill came to £25 each. Da Mario is an authentic slice of Naples in London, where delicious food is served with a genuine smile in an ambience that would definitely entice me to come again…if only I didn’t live on the other side of the world!

Da Mario

15 Gloucester Road
London
SW7 4PP
England

Tel: +44 (0)20 7584 9078

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