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The Other Side of Vegas: A Side for Foodies…

7 Oct

Las Vegas is a crazy, crazy place. Huge buildings with any number of different themes simply sprout out of the middle of the desert, creating this insane bubble like no other place you’ve ever been to. In Vegas, time stands still, people spend money like it’s going out of fashion (sometimes making a little bit back) and generally cause all sorts of damage to both their livers and their bank balances.

I had never thought to associate Vegas with good food. A recent trip there, however, showed me that there certainly is more to Vegas than just the gambling, and food is definitely a huge focal point. Here are my thoughts on a few of the restaurants I was lucky enough to dine at:

Tom Colicchio’s Heritage Steak

This rustic steak joint, brought to us by New York chef and host of Top Chef, Tom Colicchio, had only been open a mere couple of weeks at the time we visited. We stumbled across it by chance, with no expectations, yet we were incredibly impressed by everything from the service, to the setting to the delicious food.

Heritage Steak prides itself on its wood-burning ovens and charcoal grills – basically anything with an open flame – to achieve that gorgeous smoky flavour that adds to the beauty of eating meat. You can see these open flames through the open kitchen at the back of the room, creating a warm and comforting atmosphere.

tom colicchio's heritage steak las vegas

For starters, definitely try the grilled octopus and the grilled lamb ribs, both of which are unbelievably tender and delicious. If there are enough of you, and you’re happy to share, also give the wood-roasted peaches a try.

tom colicchio's heritage steak las vegas

The steaks at Heritage Steak are a must; it is a steakhouse after all! I was equally impressed by the roasted market fish (sea bass on the day we went), stuffed with roasted tomatoes and topped with a lovely, light zucchini relish. Definitely the best fish dish I’ve had in a long, long time.

Prices are on a par with Hong Kong, but service is a million times better. Granted, you are expected to tip (and heavily) for this service, but when it’s worth paying, it’s really worth paying.

The Mirage, 3400 Las Vegas Boulevard South, Las Vegas, Nevada, USA
Tel: +1 702-791-7111
http://www.mirage.com/restaurants/heritage.aspx#

Kumi

kumi las vegas mandalay bay

Kumi, a brand new restaurant at the Mandalay Bay, serves classic Japanese favourites with its own unique “Korean-American” twist created by renowned chef Akira Back. Aside from the expansive sushi bar seating, the gorgeous design in the restaurant, with a tree in the centre of the circular room and a painted backdrop of beautiful cherry blossoms, makes you feel as if you were in a lovely Japanese garden.

kumi las vegas mandalay bay

Standout appetizers were the crispy rice with blackened tuna and ‘screaming O sauce’, the rock shrimp tempura and the gyoza.

Of the signature rolls, the kumikaze, made with snow crab and Cajun spiced salmon, was good, but if there’s one dish you must order, it’s the pop rockin’. Made with spicy tuna, crab, salmon, avocado and pop rocks, these tasty bites pop and fizz in your mouth as you eat them, creating a unique multi-sensory experience.

Despite the majority of the food being excellent, service was definitely not. It’s either several dishes coming at once, or impossible to get any service – there’s no happy medium. We found the staff a little arrogant and rude, right until the end of the meal, when of course they changed their tone in the hope of getting a big tip; they didn’t.

Mandalay Bay Resort and Casino, 3950 Las Vegas Boulevard South, Las Vegas, Nevada 89119, USA
Tel: +1 702-632-7777
http://kumilasvegas.com/

STK

It was actually our friendly waiter at Heritage Steak who recommended this place to us, earning him even more brownie points. STK is not just a steakhouse (although evidently that is its main selling point); it is a bar, a hangout, and generally a cool place to see and be seen. With fun lounge music blaring and excellent food, I can see why this place is jam-packed even on a Monday night.

stk las vegas cosmopolitan

Before moving on to the awesome, succulent steaks, we shared a beautiful foie gras waffle with juniper berries and foie gras cream. To say it was heavenly would be an understatement.

stk las vegas cosmopolitan

My 7-ounce fillet medallion was divine, cooked to tender perfection. Just in case the foie gras starter isn’t rich enough for you, you’re welcome to add a slab of foie gras, or even foie gras butter to your steak. Personally, I opted for some spicy chimichurri. Sides of Parmesan truffle fries, creamed spinach and spiced maple carrots were the cherry on top, particularly the latter.

stk cosmopolitan las vegas

Of the multiple delicious-sounding dessert options, it was the bread pudding with English toffee, salted caramel and cap’n crunch that took our fancy. Cap’n Crunch, when I was even littler, was my favourite breakfast cereal, and here it added a welcome crunchiness to a wonderfully decadent, gooey dessert.

Prices, again, are not cheap, averaging at around USD150 per head including a beautiful bottle of wine. Service is tip-worthy, making it even pricier, but it’s definitely a restaurant/bar/hang-out I would recommend to anyone visiting Vegas (or LA, Miami, Atlanta, New York or even London for that matter, as apparently there are branches there too!).

Cosmopolitan Hotel, 3708 Las Vegas Boulevard South, Las Vegas, Nevada 8910, USA
Tel: +1 702-698-7990
http://www.cosmopolitanlasvegas.com/taste/restaurant-collection/stk.aspx

The Cheesecake Factory

cheesecake factory henderson nevada

We actually went to The Cheesecake Factory in Henderson, about a 15-minute drive from the Strip, but it is in fact a chain that can be found all over the US.

cheesecake factory

The minute I saw the name of the restaurant, I insisted we needed to go there, resulting in negative grumbles from the other half. Eventually, he came around to the idea and we found ourselves waiting for a table and gazing longingly at a counter full of mountain-high cheesecakes.

cheesecake factory henderson nevada

Looking around the room at the dishes our fellow diners were being served, we quickly discovered that portion sizes at The Cheesecake Factory are as big as the menu itself: huge. Therefore, after a starter of hummus and pita, we decided to share a main course of crusted chicken romano – Parmesan-crusted chicken in a light tomato sauce. Although we swapped the pasta with which it is originally served for sweet potato fries, the portion size was more than sufficient for the two of us.

You can’t go to the Cheesecake Factory without trying a slice of cheesecake, and that is an indisputable fact. There are over 30 different kinds, and each slice is closer to three slices of an ordinary cheesecake, but this is no ordinary cheesecake. We tried the caramel pecan turtle one, and although a few spoonfuls was enough to give us a sugar-high, it was definitely worth it.

Prices are reasonable (particularly if you’re sharing dishes), and service is efficient. It’s not somewhere I could eat every day, but I think it’s worth a trip, even if just for the novelty factor!

160 S Green Valley Parkway, Henderson, Nevada 89052, USA
Tel: +1 702-207-6372
Other locations can be seen here: http://www.thecheesecakefactory.com/

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Tramshed, London

7 Aug

the dim sum diaries hong kong

 

 

tramshed londonCows and chickens have played a large part in my life recently, starting with Jason Black’s wonderful cookbook COW PIG CHICKEN. Needless to say, when, on a recent jaunt back to London, I heard about Tramshed, a restaurant specialising in solely cow and chicken (not sure what they have against poor pigs), I thought it quite a fitting choice for dinner.

Tramshed, in the heart of uber trendy Shoreditch, is the seventh restaurant opened by renowned chef, restaurateur and food writer Mark Hix. As you may be able to gather from its name, the grade-II listed building was once an electricity generating station for trams; its toweringly high ceilings and steel arches also give testament to this. The main focal point as soon as you enter the vast restaurant, however, is the specially commissioned piece of artwork by Damien Hirst: a giant formaldehyde-filled tank containing a real cow and chicken. Just in case anyone is still unsure what this place is all about, at the back of the restaurant, a huge painting (also by Damien Hirst) of the cartoon Cow and Chicken adorns the wall of the mezzanine level.

tramshed londonThe menu, of course, is pretty much limited to cow and chicken. The starters (designed for sharing) change on a regular basis, whilst the main courses consist of either chicken or steak (for one or to share) with a range of sides to go with either. There are of course vegetarian options if you insist on being difficult, but, generally speaking, if you don’t love a bit of chicken or steak then perhaps Tramshed just isn’t the place for you.

tramshed london

To begin, we couldn’t resist ordering the Yorkshire pudding with whipped chicken livers. Living in Hong Kong, Yorkshire puds are not something I regularly come across, which made this gloriously crispy yet doughy pud even more of a treat. Who cares if the deliciously smooth, rich chicken pate served alongside it made the whole dish even more unhealthy – it tasted wonderful and that’s surely all that matters, right?!

To chase this, we each had a shooter of pea and ham soup. Served chilled, it was refreshingly minty and light, topped with crispy pork crackling, making it the perfect prelude to the chicken and steak feast that was to come.

tramshed london

Wanting to make sure we tried a bit of both animals, we opted for individual portions of each. Having had pre-starters at Callooh Callay down the road before our actual starters (fatties), the individual portions stretched more than far enough to serve as sharing portions for two. Tramshed’s chickens come from the village of Goosnargh in Lancashire, where they are apparently treated and fed like royalty, resulting in “memorable poultry that really is a joy to eat.” I concur; the interestingly presented spring chicken was succulent and flavoursome without even a hint of dryness. I rarely order chicken in a restaurant, given that it is one of the easiest things to cook at home, yet I would certainly order this one again.

tramshed london

The Glenarm ‘Mighty Marbled’ sirloin steak was even better, however – beautifully tender, sweet and flavoursome, achieved through dry-ageing it in a Himalayan salt chamber.

tramshed london

Sides of Scrumpy fried onions, minted peas and broad beans, as well as the chips that came with the steak, were the perfect complement to all of the above. I’m not usually an onion ring kind of girl, yet these slightly sweet, not too heavy rings of goodness were decidedly moreish.

tramshed london

To finish, despite the food babies that were quickly growing inside us, we stuck to what we had already decided at the beginning of the meal: that the Cornish salted caramel fondue needed to be tasted. A cute ceramic pot of bubbling salted caramel sat atop a tealight candle, alongside fluffy homemade marshmallows and crispy doughnut chunks – yes, it was every bit as delicious and indulgent as it sounds!

Service at Tramshed was spectacular, as our friendly waiter offered us recommendations and personal tips to make every bit of our meal all the more enjoyable. One thing that mildly annoyed me, however, is the fact that a 10% service charge was automatically added to the bill – something that, unlike in HK, UK restaurants never used to do. We obviously would have been more than willing to tip generously had it been our choice, but having this choice taken away from us left a slightly sour taste. Regardless, for a satisfying meal of this calibre, washed down with a bottle of ‘Tramshed Red’, we paid £48 (approx HKD570) each, which, given how much a similar restaurant would charge in HK, wasn’t unreasonable at all. Tramshed, you really know how to make those cows and chickens of the world truly shine, thank you.*

Tramshed

32 Rivington Street
London
EC2A 3LX
UK

Tel: +44 (0)20 7749 0478

www.chickenandsteak.co.uk

*Apologies to all the food photo critics out there – I get frowned upon every time I get my Canon out in the UK, so these are quick low-light iPhone snaps that clearly do not do the food any justice!

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Terrazza at Galaxy Macau

11 Jul

the dim sum diaries hong kong

 

 

terrazza galaxy macauIt always amazes me how easy it is to get to Macau, yet how insanely different it is to Hong Kong once you get there. A recent trip across the water took me to the gigantic, glitzy Galaxy Macau for the first time, to try out its signature Italian restaurant, Terrazza.

terrazza galaxy macau

Much like all of Macau’s big hotels, nothing is done in halves at the Galaxy; everything is big, everything is bold and everything is intentionally exaggerated. The same can be said for Terrazza; as you enter, you feel a million miles from the Galaxy’s shiny casino, as if you have been transported to an elegant restaurant somewhere on the Mediterranean coast. Soft shades of bronze and deep reds give the space a warm, inviting feel, enhanced by dim lighting and elegant, modern chandeliers. Attention is naturally drawn to the semi-open kitchen at the back of the room, where diners can watch the chefs hard at work through a big glass window.

The team is led by Chef Gleb Snegin, who has previously worked at many Michellin-starred Italian restaurants in Europe and Asia. He does not focus on one specific region of Italy, but takes inspiration from the entire country, using only the finest seasonal ingredients to create delicious yet unfussy Italian fare, which he insists he wants to be “beautiful in its simplicity”.

terrazza galaxy macau

After unavoidably gorging on the delicious freshly baked breads on offer, we were each presented with a slice of Trentino pizza. This white-based pizza, laden with taleggio, mozzarella, broccoli, zucchini, spinach and speck, was insanely good, whilst somehow remaining light and summery. Knowing there were still four courses to go, I refrained from reaching for a second slice.

terrazza galaxy macau

The crispy veal roll served with vegetable caponata was heavenly. Beneath the crispy outer layer, was wonderfully tender meat, which contrasted well with the slightly al dente vegetables, all brought together by a drizzle of sweet and sour honey mustard dressing.

terraza galaxy macau

One of Chef Gleb’s favourite dishes is the spaghetti chitarra, and quite rightly so. Here, slightly square spaghetti is effortlessly presented with pine nuts, bottarga, burrata, dill and saffron. Alone, these seemed like very simple ingredients, yet together they exemplified the perfect, comforting Italian (specifically Sicilian in this case) dish.

terrazza galaxy macau

Given the choice between black cod and rack of lamb, I chose the latter, and was served a perfectly pink, incredibly juicy, and most importantly wonderfully tasty herb-crusted rack of lamb that simply melted in the mouth. Not only were the colours on the plate beautiful to look at, but also worked together to create what was without a doubt my favourite dish of the night.

terrazza galaxy macauBeing a chocoholic and usually leaning heavily towards any chocolate dessert on the menu, the idea of Chef Gleb’s Giardino – a herb sponge with white melon ice cream, sage mint macaron and white chocolate sauce – filled me with intrigue, yet didn’t sound utterly convincing. I was, however, taken completely by surprise; the herb sponge was light, fluffy and wonderfully summery, enhanced by the deep, sweet flavour of the white melon ice cream. Picture a beautiful garden on a warm summer’s day – if you could put a flavour to that garden, this would be it.

Service at Terrazza is excellent and prices, for an Italian restaurant of this calibre, aren’t too outrageous, with starters around MOP70-200 and main courses mostly under MOP300. It is definitely somewhere worth visiting, whether the night ends with a ferry back to HK or a good night’s sleep in one of the Galaxy’s gigantic, comfortable beds.

Terrazza

201, 2/F, Galaxy Macau
Estrada da Baia de Nossa Senhora da Esperença
Cotai
Macau

Tel: +853 8883 2221

www.galaxymacau.com

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Cuca, Bali

2 Jul

cuca bali

* One of the most rewarding things about having a blog is the steady flow of emails I receive from my readers, whether it be to recommend a favourite restaurant, ask for recommendations, or – my favourite kind of email – one from a restaurateur who would love me to try their restaurant. Just as I was planning a trip to Bali for a half marathon, in pops an email from a yet-to-open Bali-based restaurant called Cuca.

Everything was set to be finished prior to our visit to Bali, so plans were in place to visit Cuca the night after the race for the perfect celebration. However, as Cuca’s owners Kevin and Virginia have learnt, you can’t believe deadlines that construction workers on a tropical island promise you! Instead of going to the restaurant, we were therefore kindly invited to Kevin and Virginia’s beautiful home to taste the dishes that will be on the menu.

cuca bali

Kevin Cherkas, who has previously worked at Daniel, El Bulli and other high-end restaurants, including ones at various Shangri-La hotels, wanted to move away from fine dining to a more casual concept, whilst still ensuring the intensity, attention to detail and of course flavour of a fine dining establishment. Cuca’s menu is therefore kept very simple, split into cocktails, tapas and desserts. Although the dishes are more western than Indonesian, every dish and every cocktail is made using only ingredients that can be found in Indonesia; if the ingredient is imported, they simply will not use it. The same applies to wine, meaning the wine list is very small; after all it doesn’t exactly fit under the ‘cocktails, tapas, desserts’ concept!

cuca bali

We began our evening with a ‘Sun-gria’ (as opposed to a ‘Moon-gria’, their white wine version), which immediately impressed us. Rather than using ice cubes and chopped fruit as in a regular sangria, the ice cubes are in fact made of fresh fruit juice. As the ice begins to melt, you will therefore begin to notice a stronger hint of watermelon or pineapple, for example, exploding through the fruity, summery drink.

cuca bali

Once at the table, our meal began with a bowl of warm edamame, sprinkled with Bali sea salt (there’s even a touching story about how they source that!), Szechuan pepper, citrus zest and chilli flakes. I love edamame at the best of times and these certainly did not disappoint.

cuca bali

Alongside these, came pan con tomate, a plate of crisp, thinly sliced, rustic bread served with aioli and tomato chutney. Both dips were delicious and homely, setting the scene for what was to come.

cuca bali

A beautifully presented chilled watermelon salad followed this. With juicy, fresh watermelon, crisp radish, seaweed, sesame and coriander, each bite delivered the perfect combination of varying textures and flavours to create a healthy yet deliciously moreish dish.

cuca bali

One of my favourite dishes of the night was the BBQ octopus, served with Asian gazpacho, sliced apple, caramelised cauliflower and sweet corn. Having been par-boiled before barbecuing, the octopus was incredibly tender, far from the rubbery texture so often associated with grilled octopus. The accompanying flavours worked well together to enhance the taste of the wonderful seafood.

cuca bali

A plate of gambas a la plancha came next. This was a very simple dish of grilled tiger prawns sprinkled in Bali sea salt; they were so utterly delicious and fresh that they needed nothing else.

cuca bali

The last of the tapas was crispy fried chicken. Taking inspiration from the super unhealthy fried chicken we all know and love, Kevin has created his very own version that tastes just as good (if not better) yet doesn’t feel greasy or unhealthy in the slightest. The lightly battered chicken, coated in black sesame seeds, has the perfect level of crunch and is served alongside red cabbage, sesame dust and lemon basil leaves, which somehow combine on the palate to resemble fresh coleslaw.

cuca bali

Our dessert of the night, the Cocoa 8, was inspired by one of my favourite chocolates – the After Eight. Warm dark chocolate mousse provided a bed for homemade fresh mint ice cream and cocoa croutons, creating a perfect balance of textures and comforting flavours; close your eyes and it is indeed as if you are eating an After Eight. Apparently to create the croutons, a chocolate cake is baked, cut into cubes and then dehydrated – who’d have thought of that!

cuca bali

Cuca doesn’t stop at merely a restaurant; Kevin also offers ‘tasting classes’ to teach excited foodies which flavours go together and why. They also sell their Cuca Salts, each meddled with different herbs and spices to create the perfect seasoning for all kinds of meats and vegetables.

Although we didn’t have the pleasure of seeing the beautiful finished restaurant described to us, we were honoured to be able to be Cuca’s first customers and taste the delicious, creative and exquisite cocktails, tapas and desserts that will soon be served. All being well, Cuca is set to open on 23rd July; I’m already trying to think of a valid reason to go back as soon as possible to see the finished product!

Cuca

Jalan Yoga Perkanthi
Jimbaran
Denpasar, Bali
Indonesia

Tel: +62 821 8999 1977

www.cucaflavor.com

* Having not seen the restaurant nor experienced the service, I wasn’t able to give Cuca a rating. Based on the food and beverages that we tasted however, all I can say is that there is so far nothing at all that I could fault; if service and ambiance at Cuca is consistent with this, then there is no reason why I wouldn’t give it a perfect ‘oooooh’ rating!

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Merah Putih, Bali

24 Jun

 

the dim sum diaries hong kong

 

merah putih baliWhenever I travel to a different country, I insist on consuming a fair share of that country’s cuisine, often refusing to eat anything but that particular cuisine. Thus, on a recent trip to Bali, when advised to try the island’s newest Mexican restaurant, I scowled at the idea and opted instead to try the island’s newest Indonesian restaurant, Merah Putih.

Bar the odd warung, along Seminyak’s Jalan Petitenget, you’ll struggle to find many Indonesian restaurants, particularly fine dining ones. Merah Putih, named after the colours of the Indonesian flag, has therefore arrived to fill this void and give those craving some authenticity a truly satisfying experience.

From the moment you arrive at Merah Putih, prepare to be wowed. The space is absolutely beautiful, with tall cathedral-esque pillars, giant palm trees and waterfalls; take it all in, pick your jaw up off the floor and let the incredibly friendly staff guide you to your seat. Not only is it designed to look beautiful, but the restaurant is actually its own little ecosystem; the tall pillars collect rainwater, which is then recycled and very little is wasted. It’s little details like this that British owner Jasper Manifold took into consideration so that even on the rainiest of Bali days, Merah Putih still delivers the same uniquely wonderful evening.

merah putih bali

Before getting carried away on the food order, I implore you to check out the cocktail list and be wowed once more. You can go boring and classic if you like…or you can have a Ginger Flower Martini or a Daun Jeruk and enjoy the fact that you’re on holiday in paradise.

Merah Putih’s menu is split into small plates and large plates, each of which are further divided into traditional and modern Indonesian dishes, all designed for sharing; just the way I like to eat.

merah putih bali

From the traditional small plates section, we began with a serving of deep-fried soft-shell crab topped with sliced chillies. Not only were the portions of crab generously sized, but they were also perfectly crispy and full of flavour.

merah putih bali

It was the dish from the modern small plates section that really wowed us however – Padang beef shin ‘bak pao.’ Imagine a soft steamed bun encasing tender, rich beef rendang, crunchy shallots and green sambal, and you will have yourself the most amazing parcel of joy. I was sad when it ended and was very close to demanding a second helping, before realising that if these were only the small plates, the large plates were sure to amaze us just as much, if not more…

merah putih bali

Amaze us is precisely what they did. On the modern side, the Balinese suckling pig served with long bean ‘kalasan’ and crispy skin was as tender and as comforting as could be. The flavours were bold yet still maintained an element of traditional Balinese style.

merah putih bali Words cannot begin to describe how delicious the Sulawesi prawn, squid and snapper curry was – from the traditional large plates section. The seafood was exceptionally fresh and tender, doused in a fragrant coconut curry sauce that packed a satisfying punch.

merah putih bali

A side of nasi goreng was not the size of your average side dish; it was enormous, enough to feed a small family! I know this is a very bold statement, but this nasi goreng was also quite possibly the best nasi goreng I have ever tasted. For those who know my feelings about the HKFC’s version, I think Merah Putih could certainly teach them a thing or two.

merah putih bali

The dessert menu offers ‘amuse desserts’. I took this to mean that, as they are smaller in size, no matter how full you are, it is possible to have at least one each and not be considered a fatty. We therefore shared the Kue Lapis and the Coklat Rokok. The former was a spiced layer cake with ginger crème brûlée and poached pears, whilst the latter was a warm, gooey chocolate cake served with peanut butter ice cream and a chocolate wafer. Do I even need to tell you how delicious they both were? Just take my word for it.

Service was utterly faultless during the whole meal, further enhancing the overall experience. The total bill, including drinks, came to IDR1,200,000 – the equivalent of about HKD600 each – a lot less than it would have been if the same restaurant with the same outstanding food, service and ambience were located in Hong Kong. I will most certainly be back for more of Merah Putih’s treats on my next trip to Bali.

Merah Putih

Jalan Petitenget No. 100x
Kerobokan
Denpasar
Bali
Indonesia 80361

Tel: (0361) 8465950

www.merahputihbali.com

 

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Urban Discovery’s Hei Fai Food Walk

21 Jan

Urban discovery hei fai food walk hong kong

Kowloon is considered by many of us to be ‘the dark side’; a faraway land only to be visited when dreaded visitors appear and demand to go there. Even then, the temptation to hand them a map and claim other priorities does enter our minds, and you know we’re all guilty of that. However, there is so much to be explored, particularly when it comes to food. Yet if we want to eat like the locals, where do we go and what do we order when there is no English menu in sight?

The Sassy girls recently embarked on a ‘Hei Fai Food Walk’ tour courtesy of Urban Discovery. Starting from Jordan MTR station, our knowledgeable guide Edmond led us on a culinary tour of local eats, finishing up over four hours later with satisfied bellies and cultured minds in Yau Ma Tei.

Urban discovery hei fai food walk

Our first stop, Wong Chi Ka (which apparently translates to ‘the home of the king’) was a cute little dumpling shop not far from our meeting point. Here we not only tasted some amazing rice noodles with chicken in sesame peanut sauce, incredible xiao long bao (my all-time favourite) and ‘turnip crispies’, but we also learnt about important Chinese food etiquette. For example, we learnt that ‘Hei Fai’, which means ‘move your chopsticks’ is what the host at a Chinese dinner party will announce before anyone around the table is allowed to serve themselves food. Try to enforce this around a table of hungry expats each fighting with the Lazy Susan and all you will get is a round of evil glares.

Urban Discovery Hei Fai Food Walk Hong Kong

We also learnt the correct way to eat xiao long bao and the secret behind how the chef manages to get the broth inside the delicate dumpling skin. I won’t give away the secret but it is quite a clever one.

Urban discovery hei fai food walk hong kong

Urban discovery hei fai food walk hong kong

Edmond then led us to Mak Man Kee, a popular noodle shop that always has a queue outside. As with most of these noodle joints, the turnaround is so quick that we barely waited five minutes before being seated. The difference with this noodle shop is that the noodles are handmade with duck eggs as opposed to chicken, giving them a distinctive, slightly chewier texture. One of the house specialities is braised pork trotter with noodles. Although the idea of eating pigs’ trotters may not sound appealing, having been cooked for over four hours, the flavour and texture was divine, although sadly there wasn’t enough meat on it. The less offensive sweet and sour pork option was also delicious, as were the prawn wantons.

urban discovery hei fai food walk hong kong

urban discovery hei fai food walk hong kong

A leisurely stroll through the night market, where naturally us girls simply had to make a few purchases, took us to a typical Chinese teashop just in time to shelter from the rain. In the beautifully decorated teashop, Edmond had a surprise in store for us: turtle jelly. I think of turtles as pretty cool little creatures (thanks in part to the way they are depicted in Finding Nemo) and perhaps naively assumed that would make them taste good. I can assure you that no matter how much sugar syrup you add to turtle jelly, it will never ever taste good. Determined to make myself like it, however, and encouraged by the fact it is supposed to be incredibly good for you, I kept trying it. Regardless, I can now safely add this to my list of food I dislike, along with chocolate-orange.

urban discovery hei fai food walk hong kong


A non-food related part of the tour involved having our palms read. We kindly asked our palm reader to only give us the good news, and he proceeded to amuse us with hilarious proclamations of our good health, wealth, careers and love lives. My favourite part was when he told me I would marry a rich, handsome, happy and ‘mentally mature’ man. Yes please!

urban discovery hei fai food walk hong kong

urban discovery hei fai food walk hong kong

Dai pai dongs, or street-side food stalls, are gradually becoming extinct. Where there once were hundreds of unlicensed food stalls lining our city’s streets, there are now only about 28 licensed ones (the term dai pai dong in fact refers to the ‘big license’ these restaurants must have in order to function). In a lively dai pai dong just off the market, we tried a range of seafood dishes including delicious deep-fried prawns and deep-fried squid, as well as the restaurant’s famous dish: claypot rice with chicken and Chinese sausage. This is one of the few restaurants that still use charcoal to cook the claypot rice, giving the dish a distinctive flavour.

urban discovery hei fai food walk hong kong

urban discovery hei fai food walk hong kong

Our last and final stop was of course dessert, at Gourmet Desserts Café, a bustling place serving both Chinese and Western desserts. When Edmond asked us what we wanted, we pointed to everything on the menu and he pretty much took our word for it! We tried almond soup, a ‘flaming snow mountain’, two types of chocolate fondant (plain and whisky), ginger soufflé and chestnut crumble; needless to say we practically rolled down the stairs onto the MTR!

Hei Fai food walk, at $550 per person for the incredible and fulfilling adventure I have just described, is the perfect way to spend an evening, whether you’re just visiting Hong Kong, have guests in town, or have been here for years. We all need to be taken out of our comfort zones once in a while, and if outside of that zone is delicious food, then what’s the excuse?!

www.urbandiscovery.asia

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The Shed, London

3 Dec

the shed restaurant london

One of the things I miss most about England is the countryside; farms and open expanses of greenery are not often seen in Hong Kong, at least where I live. Even though newly opened London resto The Shed is in Notting Hill, far from farms and countryside, it feels as if you have literally stepped into a country shed (albeit a rather glamorous one).

The Shed was set up by brothers Richard and Oliver Gladwin, as manager and chef respectively, whilst the third and youngest brother Gregory works at the family farm in Nutbourne, West Sussex, from which most of the restaurant’s delicious fresh produce comes.

the shed restaurant london

From the outside, you would definitely be forgiven for mistaking the building with a garden shed, given its white wooden façade. The interior is decorated with pitch forks, tables are made from barrels or reclaimed wood, and there is even the bonnet of a tractor hanging above the bar, making you want to put on your very best ‘Farmer Joe’ accent when ordering a drink. Nevertheless, it also has a warm (rather too warm) cottagey feel that encourages you to stay there for hours and avoid the cold outdoors. I loved the added touches like the lumberjack shirts and leather tool belts worn by the waiters, which really complete the look

The Shed holds one of my favourite philosophies, that of ‘sharing is caring’. The menu, which changes daily according to what’s in season, can probably be described as ‘British tapas’, consisting of a variety of small plates designed to be shared, making sure evil Food Envy stays far, far away.

the shed restaurant london

Our first ‘mouthful’, from the section of the menu with the same name, didn’t particularly impress us. Although the endive with pear and blue cheese sounded tasty, it was a little heavy on the pear and light on the cheese.

the shed restaurant london

However, the chorizo patty was incredible, both in texture and taste. The rich, salty chorizo was topped with a humble dollop of egg mayo, bringing it back to its roots and creating a remarkable dish. We just wished we had ordered more than one mouthful each!

The Shed’s salami, made at Nutbourne Farm, was of the highest quality and paired perfectly with the homemade bread. The only thing I was slightly unsure of was the anchovy butter…

the shed restaurant london

Why I have never had goat’s cheese paired with hazelnuts is beyond me; after tasting The Shed’s pan-fried goat’s cheese with hazelnuts, honey and thyme, I was in cheese heaven and swore to always eat goat’s cheese with hazelnuts from that moment on. We were advised that 2.5 main courses under ‘slow cooking’ or ‘fast cooking’ would suffice per person – so we ordered two of everything, of course.

the shed restaurant london

The venison chipolatas with Shed mustard were cooked exactly to my liking: perfectly bronzed on the outside and deliciously juicy on the inside. The rich, gamey flavour was further enhanced by the homemade mustard so that this was actually the only dish I could have done without having ordered a second helping of…. although I happily ate a second chipolata anyway!

the shed restaurant london

I loved the girolles, thyme crumpet and labneh cheese, particularly the latter, which added a wonderful creaminess to this hearty and comforting dish.

the shed restaurant london

My absolute favourite, however, were without a doubt the lamb chips, served with a generous dollop of spiced harissa. These two cylinders of beautifully tender lamb shank, coated in crispy breadcrumbs were to die for; we were all relieved there was another plate to come when the first sadly ended.

Simply because a meal cannot end on lamb alone, we shared two desserts between us: Apple tart tatin and cranberry suet roly poly. The former was decadently sweet, with a perfectly crisp base, unusually yet tastily paired with poppyseed ice cream.

the shed restaurant london

Having originally ordered a chocolate brownie, Richard insisted we must try his roly poly instead, something I would never normally order. Richard was absolutely right: the roly poly was utterly divine. The cake was amazingly light and fluffy, and the slightly tart cranberry compote on top transformed this traditional, yet often forgotten dessert into something I would want to order time and time again.

shed restaurant london

Prices at The Shed aren’t too steep at all; for lots of tasty food, a ‘daily loosener’ each (containing gin, white wine, rosehip and soda - sounds bizarre but tasted amazing) and a bottle of wine, we paid a mere £35 per head (around HKD400), and were also given a cute little packet of seeds to take away and try to make our own farm. With its excellent and friendly service, warm, inviting interiors and of course wholesome, delicious and real food, brought from the farm to your table, it is definitely worth hanging out in this Shed.

The Shed

122 Palace Gardens Terrace
Notting Hill
W8, London

Tel: +44 (0) 20 7229 4024

www.theshed-restaurant.com

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The Thinkers Balcony, London

27 Nov

the thinkers balcony secret supper club londonDo we ever really think about what it is we are eating and why we are eating that particular thing? Of course we think about how much we enjoy that food (hopefully), but most of the time, eating is never really a very meditative experience. Ilyas Kassam, an old university friend and now a writer of philosophy, begs to differ, believing that food can indeed be tied to thought. Taking this a step further, by associating food with the specific thoughts of well-known philosophers, Ilyas set up The Thinkers Balcony, a secret supper club, to encourage his diners to ‘engage with their desires, their beliefs, and of course their stomachs!’

the thinkers balcony supper club london

The Thinkers Balcony is not like any private kitchen we know in Hong Kong; it is located in a beautiful traditional London town house in Notting Hill, in fact in Ilyas’ very own living room. The room is artistically decorated, with a gramophone, stacks of philosophical books, unusual hats, and most importantly a low table made from old wine cases, around which diners sit on cushions on the floor. As we sipped on glasses of Champagne (it’s BYOB – it would have been rude not to!) whilst we waited for the food to be presented, we took in our surroundings and knew we were in for an unforgettable experience.

the thinkers balcony supper club london

Normally, diners coming to The Thinkers Balcony are aware of who the philosopher inspiring their meal is before they begin their feast. Ilyas had something different in store for us, however; our meal was entitled Mystery and the Unknown: An Existential Adventure of the Stomach, so the philosophy was not revealed until the end of the meal. Until then, each course led us on an inquisitive journey where we were encouraged to think really hard (seriously hard in fact) about what the thought governing the meal could be…

the thinkers balcony supper club londonThe first course, or the ‘prelude’, was Bergamot Ponzu Oyster with Ikura. I’m not always enamoured by oysters, yet I definitely was by these. The citrusy flavours of the bergamot and ponzu shone through and contrasted with the delicate chamomile leaf oil to create a delicious yet not thunder-stealing backdrop for the oyster.

the thinkers balcony supper club london

‘Chapter 1’ was an incredible Japanese Tuna Tartare beautifully presented with edible flowers. With strong hints of sesame, buttery chunks of avocado and of course melt-in-the-mouth tuna, all you could hear around the table was the sound of delighted diners and cutlery scooping up every last crumb.

the thinkers balcony supper club london

the thinkers balcony supper club london

Our main course, ‘Chapter 2’, was Smoked Cognac Chipotle Beef and Tamago Donburi. As you can tell, Ilyas takes most of his inspiration from Japanese cuisine (and quite rightly too, as it’s one of my favourites). This dish arrived in three parts: first the sticky rice topped with tamago (Japanese omelette) and sesame, followed by a wooden board laden with rare chunks of steak that caused a tablewide round of ‘oooohs’, and finished off with a jug of chipotle sauce. Although the beef was a little chewy, it was beautifully infused with cognac, which tasted even better with a generous dash of the smoky, slightly spicy chipotle sauce.

the thinkers balcony supper club london

‘Chapter 3’ was dessert: Black Truffle Ice Cream with Argan Baked Fig served on a pumpkin, date and hazelnut ‘sand’. Putting truffle in a dessert is a very brave move, as it isn’t to everyone’s taste. So, although there were a few confused and perhaps displeased palates around the room, those who did like it (including me!) made up for the haters and made sure every plate was licked clean. The combination of the unique flavours and textures really demonstrated Ilyas’ passion and skill in the kitchen.

the thinkers balcony supper club london

Last but most certainly not least, for the ‘Epilogue’, we were presented with a plate of homemade Saffron Chocolates, the perfect end to a delicious meal. I wish I could have taken a box of these home with me.

the thinkers balcony supper club london

Aside from the Champagne and wine we had brought ourselves, we were also served some exceptional teas from Ilyas’ vast collection from around the world; a unique touch to complement such a fun and adventurous meal.

After we had racked our brains to try and determine who the philosopher behind our feast was, we lifted our plates to reveal the absurd answer. I’m not going to give the secret away, just in case Ilyas uses this idea again, but I can tell you that it definitely surprised us and made us think.

Dinners at The Thinkers Balcony occur roughly every three weeks and cost between £20 and £40 per ticket (HKD240-480) depending on the nature of the meal and number of courses. You can be added to the mailing list to find out about upcoming events by entering your email address here. There are only six tickets each time, so make sure you get yours early. You will meet some interesting people, eat some incredible food and be wowed by how philosophy can be reflected in what we eat…

The Thinkers Balcony

Notting Hill (exact location will be given when tickets are purchased)

http://thethinkersbalcony.com

Contact: [email protected]

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Naughty Nuri’s, Batubelig, Bali

17 Aug

Naughty nuris batubelig bali

To celebrate my sister’s birthday in Bali, we opted not for a Balinese restaurant (although we know these are good from my previous trip, reviewed here), but for a much naughtier option: Naughty Nuri’s in Batubelig.

Naughty Nuri’s is famous for its “wicked ribs and brutal martinis”, so it was definitely the perfect place to go with a group of 20 to celebrate such a momentous birthday. Despite not being able to reserve a table, we stomped our feet, raised our voices, and eventually managed to land ourselves the biggest table in the house, albeit at rather a tight squeeze.

There is nothing fancy about this restaurant; it classes itself as a warung, a casual family-owned café with wooden tables and benches. Yet when the emphasis is on the ribs and martinis, who cares about the surroundings?

Over the course of the evening, we ordered four rounds of lychee martinis, each impossibly stronger than the last. The fun isn’t just in drinking the cocktails, but in watching the staff perform a hilarious dance as they shake up the cocktails tableside. If you know my brother, ask him for a demonstration – he knows the moves better than anyone!

Food-wise, we massively over-ordered, asking for ten servings of each of the following: pork chops, tuna steaks, chicken, corn on the cobs, potato wedges, and, of course, ribs. A little excessive you say? Perhaps, but we needed something to soak up the industrial-strength martinis.

naughty nuri's batubelig bali

Everything was pretty tasty, but I feel a special mention needs to go to the pork chops. I had no qualms about picking up the bone and finishing off every last piece of meat, for fear that any should be left to waste. The meat was succulent, bursting with flavour, and I encountered barely an ounce of fat.

naughty nuri's batubelig bali

I had initially planned on ignoring the tuna steaks: when one has ten racks of ribs, what use is there for healthy fish, right? Wrong. The tuna was cooked to perfection, lightly seared on each side leaving the middle wonderfully juicy. I was grateful everyone else had the same initial idea as me, meaning there were plenty of leftovers for the next day. (Surprisingly it still tasted good straight out of the fridge without reheating.)

naughty nuri's batubelig bali

You’ll be pleased to hear that the best part of the meal was of course the ribs. Cooked on the roadside barbecue, they were so tasty and tender that in fact not one single rib made it back to our villa in the doggy bag; a fact that provoked many a moan the next day.

Bearing in mind that each martini cost IDR110,000 alone, and the fact that we had excesses of food, somehow (with a little help from a Naughty Nuri’s VIP card – I should get me one of those) the bill per head was a mere IDR600,000 (approximately HKD500). We might as well have had another couple of lychee martinis!

Normally when visiting any Asian country, I like to embrace said country’s culture and cuisine, and indeed I frown upon anybody who doesn’t. Yet Naughty Nuri’s has shown a definite exception to this rule; we could not possibly have had a better night anywhere else if we’d tried.


Naughty Nuri’s

Jalan Batubelig 41
Kerobokan Kelod
Kuta
Bali

(Original outlet in Ubud)

Tel: +62 361 847 6722

www.naughtynurisbali.com

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Dishoom, London

19 Jul

 

 

Dishoom London

In English films, when a punch is landed, the sound effect is said to be ‘kapow!’ In Bollywood films, the same act is accompanied by the onomatopoeic word ‘dishoom!’ As soon as I knew that this was how Dishoom in Covent Garden got its name, it was even more of a reason to go there.

Dishoom London

Dishoom is based on the Bombay cafés of the 1960s, a trend of all day cafés made popular by Persian immigrants in what was then Bombay. These elegant, airy spaces used to line the streets, but now they number less than 30. The owners of Dishoom therefore wanted to pay homage to these places that appealed to businessmen, students and workers alike, and bring a different side of India to London’s already Indian-saturated culinary scene.

The décor is as you would expect it to be in a Bombay café; high ceilings adorned with wooden fans, ceramic floor tiles, wooden panelling on the walls contrasted with painted bricks and dotted with framed posters and photographs of Bollywood film stars or Indian families. The retro-modern feel is self-proclaimed as ‘faded elegance’. It is inviting, but I must say that even more inviting are the beautiful aromas that emanate from the open kitchen on the first floor; the smell hit me as soon as I entered and immediately excited my taste buds.

Unfortunately, as we were only five, we were unable to book a table (evening bookings require a minimum of six people), although it was hardly a chore to endure a fairly short wait at the downstairs bar drinking Chaijitos (a mojito made with chai-infused rum) and Chilli Martinis while our table became available.

We were advised by our friendly waiter that it would be wise to share four to five small plates (the beauty of Dishoom is that all plates are designed for sharing, keeping evil Food Envy at bay), followed by five mains and four to five breads and sides. What our friendly waiter didn’t warn us, was that despite thinking we were ordering starters followed by mains, everything came all at once, which was a little overwhelming to say the least, especially given the obvious requirement to take photos for all my dear readers.

Dishoom London

Dishoom’s answer to poppadoms came in the form of Far Far, tube-like colourful fried snacks that tasted lovely, yet would have been better as a pre-dinner snack to go with our cocktails, as the other more exciting dishes left the poor Far Far far behind.

Dishoom London

The vegetable samosas were just as they should be: crispy on the outside, soft, crumbly and comforting on the inside, with a solid fiery kick.

Dishoom London

The Pau Bhaji was beautiful: a bowl of gorgeously comforting mashed vegetables in a rich curry sauce, served with fluffy buttered bread. I think I could definitely live off buckets of this.

Dishoom London

Vada Pau is apparently a ‘Bombay obsession’ and I can totally see why. It is a delicious soft potato patty, topped with chutney and encased in a fluffy bun. Although it was difficult to share between five, we managed, and only wished there had been more.

Dishoom London

From the ‘grills’ section of the menu, we tried Mahi Tikka: incredibly succulent chunks of North Atlantic cod that simply melted in the mouth. The coriander and lime marinade brought out the delicate flavour of the fish.

As the rest of us needed meat in our lives, our token veggie friend (everyone has to have one) chose her own main of Mattar Paneer under ‘Ruby Murray’ on the menu: fluffy chunks of paneer cheese bathed in Dishoom’s lovely and comforting curry sauce.

Dishoom London

The Dhaba Chicken, also from the ‘Ruby Murray’ section was delicious, made with amazingly tender chunks of chicken cooked in a thick and gently spiced curry sauce that also served as an incredible dipping sauce for the beautiful garlic naan (complete with large chunks of pungent garlic) and the paper thin Roomali roti.

Dishoom London

A Lamb Biriyani, sealed with pastry in its hot clay pot, was prised open before us to reveal a wonderfully aromatic dish that made even the veggie utter an audible ‘aaaah’. The taste was just as good too, with succulent pieces of lamb and a punchy level of spiciness.

Dishoom London

The Chole Frankie Roll consisted of a lovely and soft home-baked naan bread, stuffed with spiced chickpeas, coriander and chutney to create an exciting and fiery wrap.

Dishoom London

Aside from the naan, roti and the obligatory rice, we also shared a bowl of crispy fried okra, tossed in ‘magic masala’. It was definitely magic.

For cocktails, a bottle of wine and plenty of food, we paid only £26 each (around HKD300). Maybe I’ve got used to Hong Kong prices, but this to me seemed like an absolute bargain. My one complaint is the absurd speediness of the food, but as soon as they uttered the phrase “it’s not fast; it’s dishoom!” I quickly forgave them and realised it was all part of the experience, an experience that I would definitely like to relive on my next trip back to Blighty. Next time I’m going for breakfast, as that Bacon Naan Roll with homemade chilli jam is calling out to me.

Dishoom

12 Upper St Martin’s Lane
Covent Garden
London WC2H 9FB
United Kingdom

Tel: +44 (0)20 7420 9320

www.dishoom.com

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