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Manor Seafood Restaurant

28 Jan

4_oh

Manor Seafood Restaurant Hong Kong

There is little better for a non-Chinese-speaking foodie like myself than dining with a group of Chinese-speaking foodies who not only know the good spots I probably wouldn’t have otherwise known about, but also know the best things to order. Such was the case on a recent trip to Manor Seafood Restaurant on Jaffe Road.

This very local restaurant where English is not widely spoken has been around forever and is known for its late night dining; it serves food until 4am – perfect for a feast after a night on Lockhart doh.

For our group of nine, we were offered a private room at the back of the restaurant. We were then told mid-way through our meal that there was a minimum spend of $5,500 for the use of this room and we were therefore expected to order more. Needless to say there was many an argument with the grumpy staff, giving the otherwise wonderful meal a slightly sour taste.

manor seafood restaurant hong kong

manor seafood restaurant hong kong

Grumbles about service and cost aside, the food is what really matters, and thankfully on this front Manor certainly delivers. We began our feast with the best suckling pig I have ever eaten. The whole pig was brought out with beautiful golden skin scored into squares ready to be eaten with a dollop of hoisin sauce and spring onions on a miniature pancake. The skin was incredibly crispy and somehow not greasy in the slightest. Whilst I usually discard fatty skin, on this occasion I gobbled down three slices!

manor seafood restaurant hong kong

After the skin had been devoured, the pig was taken away and carved into pieces of juicy, tender and delicious meat. Note, the suckling pig needs to be ordered at least a day in advance.

manor seafood restaurant hong kong

Following this, we were served a plate of gold coin chicken: a heart attack sandwich. Slices of char siu, chicken liver, pork fat and taro were stacked up between two of the same miniature pancakes. If you can handle intense, seriously rich food then these are absolutely divine, just as long as you do some hardcore exercise the following day.

manor seafood restaurant hong kong

It seems that Manor also serves the best char siu I have ever eaten. Again it wasn’t oily in the slightest and, having been slow cooked for hours, the meat was incredibly tender and full of that amazing honey flavour that implores you to have another piece, and then another…

manor seafood restaurant hong kong

Manor is technically a ‘seafood’ restaurant, so of course we had to add some seafood to the mix. The steamed crab with shao xing wine received mixed comments. Whilst the crab itself was wonderfully tender and meaty (at over $1000 for this dish, you’d bloomin’ well hope so!), the sauce, made with sweet Chinese wine, egg yolk and chicken fat (yes, chicken fat), was insanely rich. Nevertheless, there was something about the sauce (perhaps my new found addiction to fat) that made me keep going back for more. Served alongside the crab are crispy vermicelli cakes, designed to mop up the rich sauce.

manor seafood restaurant hong kong

The oysters with ginger and spring onion tossed and served in a clay pot were also incredible and beat the raw version hands down.

manor seafood restaurant hong kong

manor seafood restaurant hong kong

The fried tofu with chilli and garlic was not the best I’ve ever had, and neither was the Chinese lettuce in a clay pot, but thankfully (and surprisingly) there was still room for dessert, something I had been looking forward to since I first heard the words ‘baked almond bun’. The soft, warm buns, coated in a crispy sugary outer layer give way to a creamy almond paste that is decadently sweet and moreish.

I have already commented on the service, which remained negative throughout the meal. When the bill came, we were actually not far off the minimum spend anyway, paying around $570 per head, without any drinks. There was I thinking Cantonese food is supposed to be cheap, but then again it was worth it for the suckling pig alone…

Manor Seafood Restaurant

G/F, 440 Jaffe Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2836 9999

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Eating Sai Ying Pun

17 Jan

In an effort to explore more local neighbourhoods, I recently found myself having dinner at four restaurants in one night. How else am I supposed to try as many restaurants as possible when I’m only allowed three meals a day?!

With no real plan in mind other than to just go exploring, my stomach took us on an adventure in the ‘West Side’, around the streets of up and coming Sai Ying Pun.

Derby West Hong Kong

Derby West

Our first port of call was a British pub on Queen’s Road West. Where local restaurants and shops selling dried fish (and other unidentified objects) abound, a British pub is the last thing you’d expect to find. But find it we did, and although there were one too many stereotypical (or perhaps even verging on tacky) decorations, Derby West definitely can be classified as a good old British pub. All that’s missing is the smell of stale beer and cigarettes, and possibly a slot machine too.

Derby West Hong Kong

Although the curry smelt delicious, we didn’t want to fill up on our first stop, so we opted instead for a plate of Indian vegetable samosas, as, in the words of a wise man, “you can’t get more British than that!” Sadly the samosas weren’t the best I’ve ever had; they didn’t stand up on their own for starters. However, it was pub snacks we wanted and it was pub snacks we got; we weren’t expecting gourmet food.

I wouldn’t say I’d trek all that way to visit Derby West again, but if I find myself in the area, I certainly might be tempted to see if the curry is as delicious as it smelt. And with beer and wine around the $40 mark, I can see why this is popular with HKU students, even if, unlike a real British pub, they do add an unnecessary 10% service charge.

G/F, 389-391 Queen’s Road West, Sai Ying Pun 2698 1616

BBQ Hong Kong

A little wander up the road onto Third Street took us to BBQ, a random little place that I had heard a lot of good things about. To look at, it isn’t particularly appealing: bright lights, basic tables and chairs, no fancy décor. It does however serve up some pretty decent grilled seafood and robatayaki-style skewers.

BBQ Hong Kong

The garlic scallops were slow in coming but tasted delicious, provided you’re a fan of a LOT of garlic. (I probably wouldn’t recommend having these on a first date.) At $108 per piece, you’d expect the king prawns to be good and thankfully they were: perfectly tender with a generous amount of flesh to sink your teeth into. While the sirloin steak skewer wasn’t hugely impressive, perhaps the best dish of the lot was the spicy pork, chopped up into strips and sprinkled in shichimi, making it irresistibly moreish.

129-133 Third Street, Sai Ying Pun 2548 9880

Memo's Hong Kong

Memo’s

I noticed this place on a recent visit to Fuku Robatayaki & Kaki, so as we were in the area, I couldn’t resist checking it out.

Its décor of yellow walls with exposed brick panels is inviting, as it reminded me of some of the casual neighbourhood restaurants I visited in Italy. When we had a chat with Chef Memo himself, he told us that this is exactly what he had hoped to create: a neighbourhood restaurant that Sai Ying Pun-based families could come to again and again.

Enticed by the leg of jamon Serrano and feeling the weight of BBQ’s skewers in our tummies, we decided to share a squid and jamon salad. These may not sound like ingredients you would normally put together, but I promise you that this salad was utterly delicious. The soft, buttery squid had not the smallest hint of chewiness and went perfectly with the seriously high quality cured ham. The caramelised onions, fennel bulbs and salad leaves were just a bonus.

Memo's Hong Kong

We also shared an amazing chorizo pizza. With a wafer thin crust and stringy fresh mozzarella cheese, this was one of the finest pizzas I’ve tasted in Hong Kong. It’s not the cheapest, at about $140, but it’s definitely a generous size, perfect for sharing.

I’ll most certainly be returning to taste more of Memo’s menu. I was particularly interested in the slow-cooked lamb shank for four people; all that remained on a neighbouring table was a very clean giant bone, suggesting it was seriously delicious.

G/F, 62 High Street, Sai Ying Pun 2858 8173

Blue Butcher Hong KongBlue Butcher

Yes I know, it’s not in Sai Ying Pun, but in order to burn off our three mini-meals, we walked and walked until we found ourselves having dessert at Blue Butcher.

You know how I feel about the chocolate bread and butter pudding from when I reviewed Blue Butcher last year (read the review here). Needless to say that is exactly what we had, along with a glass of Sauternes to wash it down.

108 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan 2613 9286

I discovered on this mini food crawl that this may be one of the best ways to experience restaurants. Not only do you get to taste more than the standard one place in one evening, but also, as you’re walking from place to place, chances are you’re burning off at least a few calories - perhaps a mouthful or two if you’re lucky. And do you know what that means? That you can eat more at the next place! Perhaps I’ll spend all my Friday nights eating at four restaurants whilst burning calories…

Other tasty restaurants in Sai Ying Pun:

Ba Yi – G/F, 43 Water Street, Sai Ying Pun 2484 9981
Fuku Robatayaki & Kaki – 69 High Street, Sai Ying Pun 2540 9961
Grassroots Pantry – 12 Fuk Sau Lane, Sai Ying Pun 2873 3353
Hung Hing – 22-32 Pok Fu Lam Road, Sai Ying Pun 2858 2512
Kwan Kee – Shop 1, Wo Yick Mansion, 263 Queen’s Road West, Sai Ying Pun 2803 7209
Light – 1 Second Street, Sai Ying Pun 2559 9098
Pata Negra House – G/F, 1 Second Street, Sai Ying Pun 2527 5181
Taco Chaca – 1 Second Street, Sai Ying Pun 2525 2066

As well as many others of course - just go exploring!

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Bistro du Vin

11 Jan

4_oh

bistro du vin hong kong

Despite the many trends that are blossoming all over town, French food can never be (and hopefully will never be) forgotten, especially when it’s done well, as it certainly is at Bistro du Vin.

bistro du vin hong kong

This cute little bistro on Davis Street in Kennedy Town is as Parisian as it gets in Hong Kong, with tiled flooring, rustic-looking wooden tables, long leather benches and of course French accordion music playing in the background. What I particularly love about the décor are the vintage knick-knacks such as corkscrews, pots and pans, tins, comic books and posters dotted all over the walls. I couldn’t stop my eyes from darting around the room wondering what I would find next. At the back of the restaurant lies the wine collection, from which the restaurant derives its name.

The menu is authentic, without needing to offer a vast number of choices; I wish certain restaurants would learn that it’s better to offer five options and do them well than offer 30 options that are mediocre. A range of cold cuts and homemade pâtés kick off the menu above a small selection of starters, mains and desserts, along with a few specials of the day.

bistro du vin hong kong

A French bistro is not a French bistro if it doesn’t serve onion soup. The cheesy onion soup at Bistro du Vin is one of the tastiest I’ve tried. A thick layer of molten cheese gives way to a rich soup with soft slivers of onion that melt in the mouth. Dip in some crusty bread and this will be the only soup you’ll ever want to have.

bistro du vin hong kong

The pumpkin soup from the specials menu was mild and comforting, perfect for a winter’s day, although in my opinion not a patch on the onion soup.

bistro du vin hong kong

The goat’s cheese in ‘feuille de brick’ with mesclun salad was heavenly: creamy goat’s cheese came wrapped in delicately fine and crispy pastry, which, paired with the lightly dressed salad, was neither too heavy nor too easy to resist.

bistro du vin hong kong

It was the pan-seared foie gras however that really made me smile. Two sizeable chunks of decadently buttery foie gras were topped with caramelised chunks of apple and crunchy nuts, creating a perfect balance of textures and flavours.

bistro du vin hong kong

Moving on to main courses, the red snapper with leeks and bacon from the specials board had a delicate flavour, enhanced by the sweet leeks and salty bacon.

bistro du vin hong kong

The lamb shank, cooked and served in a beautiful Le Creuset pot that was still piping hot long after the lamb had been eaten, was deliciously tender, falling off the bone at the slightest touch. It needed a little helping of salt to really bring out the flavours of the rich tomato-based sauce, but then it’s better to have too little salt and add your own than be far too salty.

bistro du vin hong kong

The only complaint about the coq au vin (also cooked and served in a beautiful Le Creuset pot) was the exact opposite: it was a little too salty. Regardless of that, the chicken was juicy and delicious, and the rich sauce served as the perfect dip for every kind of potato we had on the table: French fries, wedges and mash.

bistro du vin hong kong

Finally the duck leg confit was cooked to tender perfection, with wonderfully crispy skin that I could not refuse, despite not usually being a skin-eater. Again, the duck needed a sprinkling of salt to help it on its way, after which it was possibly my favourite of the four dishes. The wedges it was served with were dangerously moreish and clearly cooked in some kind of fat, perhaps that of the very same duck leg.

bistro du vin hong kong

I can never resist a chocolate fondant (yes, even if I have just eaten a hugely rich French meal!), and Bistro du Vin’s fondant was utter perfection. It was rich and decadent whilst at the same time light and fluffy with the perfect oozing centre that left all four of us fighting over the last piece.

bistro du vin hong kong

The only disappointment of the evening came in the form of the banana crumble. When we saw it on the specials board, having never tried crumble of the banana variety, we decided we must order it. However, the crumble was lacking and the banana was far too sweet; I like crumbles of the apple variety that maintain an element of tart. Had this been our only dessert, we might have had to trudge down to Davis to order a slice of their heavenly cheesecake, but thankfully the fondant made up for it.

Service in fact was another disappointment, where we had to wave frantically in order to get even a hint of attention. Not a single smile crossed the face of any of the waiters either, which in part ruined the experience. However, the food was scrumptious and the décor was lovely, so, despite the over $400 bill per head (when we only had three glasses of wine), I will most definitely venture back to K Town whenever I feel the urge to visit Paris.

Bistro du Vin

Shop 1D, 1 Davis Street
Kennedy Town
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2824 3010

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Hatsu Japanese Restaurant

9 Jan

4_oh

hatsu hong kong

It’s a sad fact that although Japanese food is so tasty, it’s near impossible to have a good, filling and varied Japanese meal without paying an arm and a leg. Relatively recently opened Hatsu Japanese Restaurant in Bank of America Tower is trying to change this, by offering Kaiseki cuisine in a casual setting for affordable prices.

Hatsu’s décor is very simple and relaxed. Executive Chef Toshio Kon, with 40 years’ experience in Japanese cuisine, wanted to bring back the simplicity and move away from the formality of traditional Kaiseki cuisine, making his restaurant accessible to everyone. A mixture of raw elements can therefore be seen, such as bare wooden tables, an industrial stone wall and bare light bulbs hanging from the ceiling, which are then contrasted with colourful Japanese paintings, taking you back to the restaurant’s heritage.

The restaurant is known for its Matsu Gozen Set menu, a $430 multi-course feast only available at dinner. This set offers much more than I could ever eat, and even for four of us, we were advised to share one and order a few extra dishes from the a la carte menu.

hatsu hong kong

The set began with a selection of four colourful appetisers: sea urchin-infused tofu (beautifully silky and fresh), cucumbers with miso pickle (very interesting contrast), pumpkin with edible skin (wonderful texture, yet perhaps served a little too cold, meaning the flavours were a little lost), and last but by no means least, a little platter containing tender duck breast, a fresh prawn, egg, and a delicious grilled fish fin that was somehow reminiscent of beef jerky.

hatsu hong kong

Following this, we were served a plate of grilled dried blowfish (not from the set menu) that I could not get enough of. It again had that jerky-esque texture, but it was its honey-like sweetness, heightened by the sweet Japanese mayonnaise it was served with, that pleasantly surprised me; it was hard to believe we were eating fish.

hatsu hong kong

The simmered fish from the set menu was delicious, with a sweet, smoky flavour. However, I excitedly put a sizeable chunk in my mouth without thinking and was shocked by the amount of small bones I almost choked on.

hatsu hong kong

The silver cod from the a la carte menu, on the other hand, was absolutely perfect: buttery and flaky, contrasted with its wonderfully crisp charred skin.

hatsu hong kong

A range of sashimi from the set menu offered salmon, amberjack, octopus and yellowtail. Apart from the latter, which I found almost too tough to sink my teeth into, all of the fish was wonderfully fresh and melt-in-the-mouth tender.

More impressive, however was the a la carte sashimi, offering sweet shrimp, salmon, sea urchin, octopus and yellowtail, although this changes depending on what’s freshly available.

hatsu hong kong

One of my favourite dishes was the salmon salad from the a la carte menu. Thin slivers of the freshest salmon hid a mound of lightly seasoned crunchy salad leaves and peppers, to create a gorgeously refreshing salad with interesting textures.

hatsu hong kong

The grilled part of the set involved a beautifully presented sizzling plate containing a tiger prawn and a beef roll. Both of these were utterly delicious, if a little hard to share! The tiger prawn came laden with Japanese mayonnaise, carrots and mushrooms, while the tender beef roll, stuffed with garlic, spring onions and ginger, on a bed of mushrooms and onions was my absolute favourite.

hatsu hong kong

Space on the overfilled table was cleared to make room for a huge box (not from the set menu), presented before us with its lid still on. It was a joy to lift up the lid and reveal a colourful assortment of beautiful sushi! Hatsu is the only restaurant in Hong Kong to use Akita Komachi rice, from the Akita Prefecture of Japan, known as the ‘country of rice and wine.’ Girls will be pleased to hear that apparently girls from Akita, who eat and drink its rice and sake, are more beautiful and have clearer, more youthful skin, due to the clear, pollutant-free water of the region. I’ll have another helping of this plump, sticky rice then please!

hatsu hong kong

Aside from a fairly standard bowl of miso soup, the final savoury dish of the set menu was a ‘mini bowl’ containing more of that yummy, beautifying rice, topped with fatty tuna, salmon and tofu skin, all of which were wonderfully light and moreish.

hatsu hong kong

The dessert, included in the set menu, consists of a mini slice of cake and the ice cream of the day - in our case lychee. This was delightfully fresh and creamy, without being as overpoweringly sweet as lychee flavoured desserts often can be. Soon to come will be Chef Toshio Kon’s outstanding rice-flavoured ice cream, which I am very eager to try.

Service at Hatsu is very efficient, with knowledgeable staff who ensure plates are frequently changed throughout the multi-course meal. The average spend at dinnertime is $400 per person, while set lunches start from about $130 ($90 on Saturdays!); Hatsu makes delicious Kaiseki cuisine accessible to not just those who can afford fine dining, but to you and me as well!

Hatsu Japanese Restaurant

Shop G4, G/F, Bank of America Tower
12 Harcourt Road
Admiralty
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2971 0002

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81/2 Otto e Mezzo Bombana

18 Dec

5_oh

 

 

otto e mezzo hong kongThree-Michelin-starred restaurant 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana had been on my go-to list since I first knew of its existence, yet I was waiting for the right moment to justify the expense of going there. Fortunately, two of my favourite people assisted in this quest by giving me two very generous dining vouchers. My sheer carelessness at reading expiry dates almost denied our use of these vouchers, but thankfully this outstanding restaurant pitied my stupidity and welcomed us with open arms, without me even needing to cry (although I was very close), or bring out the phrase ‘do you know who I am?!’ (to which they would most likely have answered in the negative!).

With its sepia and bronze tones, Otto e Mezzo exudes the kind of retro elegance we don’t see enough of in Hong Kong. Chef Umberto Bombana has not only been voted Asia’s best Italian chef, but the restaurant is in fact the only three-Michelin-starred Italian restaurant to exist outside of Italy.

otto e mezzo hong kong

 

otto e mezzo hong kong

The drinks list is in fact not a ‘list’ at all, but a ‘compendium’, presented in a beautiful old fashioned hardback book complete with stories and photographs. I couldn’t resist ordering the Lodano Sangria Bianca, which not only came loaded with delicious summer fruits, but was also accompanied by Iberico ham on crisp bread. I knew from that very moment that this was going be a very, very good meal.

The amuse bouche that followed (a bite-size version of vitello tonnato) reinforced my previous thought; the veal was unbelievably tender, leaving us all speechless and ready for what was to come.

otto e mezzo hong kong

One choice of starter was marinated beef tenderloin carpaccio with vegetables and crispy Parmesan. The melt-in-your-mouth beef paired perfectly with the fresh crunchy salad and slivers of radish, whilst the crispy sheets of Parmesan completed this dish.

otto e mezzo hong kong

The 8½ Seafood soup was rich and creamy and somewhat akin to a lobster bisque, with the addition of other delightful chunks of shellfish and zucchini.

otto e mezzo hong kong

My choice of Burrata cheese ravioli, however, was my favourite of the starters. The pasta was as fresh as could be, bursting with delicate, creamy burrata and topped with black olive and eggplant sauce, cherry tomatoes and fresh basil. My fears of pasta being too heavy to have as a starter were quelled when I tasted how light and wonderful this dish was.

otto e mezzo hong kong

The Line caught sea bass cooked in Sorrento lemon with confit vegetables, extra virgin olive oil dressing and fennel jus was a true taste of the Mediterranean. The fish was perfectly flaky and delicate, gently infused with lemon and enhanced by the rich olives and juicy cherry tomatoes.

otto e mezzo hong kong

One of the best things about reviewing restaurants is that I must insist on trying everyone else’s food – for the readers’ sake of course! I am very happy I tried the short rib and beef tenderloin, as this was definitely one of the best dishes of the night. The rib was slow-cooked and incredibly tender to the touch, while the pan-fried tenderloin was packed full of flavour and also wonderfully tender. Both cuts of beef were dressed in a rich red wine and plum sauce, making them even more delicious. The only complaint was that the portion of whipped potato was very much on the stingy side.

otto e mezzo hong kong

My choice of Spiced roast Challans duck supreme was another winning choice. The gamey meat was cooked to medium-rare perfection, accompanied by an apple and eggplant compote and a chunk of smooth, buttery foie gras. Again the whipped potato was a very small portion, yet for me, this dish was all about the duck.

otto e mezzo hong kong

As portions so far hadn’t been too sizeable, we thought sharing two desserts between us would be a sensible choice. The Grand Cru chocolate in 5 styles wasn’t particularly big, and we certainly had to fight over the last morsel of the decadent fondant. The other ‘styles’ of chocolate included a crème brûlée, mousse, crumble and ice cream – a chocoholic’s paradise.

otto e mezzo hong kong

We were all agreed, however, that the better of the two desserts, which would definitely have sufficed on its own, was the crispy pear tart with vanilla ice cream. The thin base of the tart was amazingly flaky, buttery and crispy, while the caramelised layer of thinly sliced pears on top instantly brought a smile to our lips. “That was a superior pear tart,” rightly commented one of my fellow diners.

After some lovely petits fours, sadly our meal had to come to an end. The service was excellent throughout the meal, with even Chef Bombana making an appearance to ensure every table of guests was content. The total bill including a bottle of wine came to $3200. Bearing in mind that some mediocre HK restaurants without any stars charge similar prices, this isn’t altogether outrageous – although we were very happy to only be paying $1200 thanks to the vouchers!

I’ve heard that Otto e Mezzo also does an exceptional aperitivo from 5-9pm, where you can buy a drink at the bar and receive an abundance of food… you know where to find me from now on after work!

8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana

Shop 202, 2/F, Alexandra House
18 Chater Road
Central
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2537 8859

www.ottoemezzobombana.com/hong-kong

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Restoration

4 Dec

4_oh

restoration hong kong

Magnolia does it, everyone loves it, so it’s about time someone else did it too. I’m talking about delicious, soul-hugging Creole cuisine, and Wyndham Street newbie Restoration is doing it in style.

This New Orleans inspired eatery sits where Skylark once was, bringing with it a gorgeous interior consisting of a host of rustic furnishings and distressed wood salvaged from Hurricane Katrina. Chef and owner Jack Carson, formerly associated with Dining Concepts’ Bistecca, Blue Smoke and BLT Steak, hails from the Deep South and wanted to bring a slice of his hometown to Hong Kong.

restoration hong kong

We began our feast by sharing a couple of starters, family style. The crabmeat cheesecake was light and fluffy, though perhaps more of a quiche than a cheesecake. At first bite I couldn’t detect any hint of crabmeat, yet the Creole meunière sauce later brought this out.

restoration hong kong

One bite of the braised pork belly, however, and the cheesecake was long forgotten. These ever so crisp chunks of pork were bursting with flavour and dangerously moreish. The sweet and rich BBQ sauce was the cherry on top and we made sure we kept the two pots of this to smear on the rest of our food.

restoration hong kong

Although I was surprised there were no ribs on the main menu, there were other typical dishes from the Deep South, including blackened catfish (which I didn’t try but was apparently was rather tasty) and a very generous portion of fried chicken. There is not a thing I could fault about this dish: the chicken was succulent, without a trace of dryness, and the batter was wonderfully crispy without being too oily.

restoration hong kong

The pepper duck, marinated in five-spice and served with a pepper jelly, was divine. The meat from both the breast and the leg was cooked to medium-rare perfection and full of that delicious, gamey flavour.

restoration hong kong

My choice was the braised NZ lamb, a beautifully cooked lamb shank that fell apart at the slightest prod. Tender root vegetables and a rich lamb demi-glace make this the ideal dish for these miserable drizzly days we’ve been suffering of late.

restoration hong kong

As we had only had two starters between four of us, we went a little overboard on the sides: a never-ending bucket of seriously addictive rosemary matchstick fries, a pot of mouth-numbing spicy fire-roasted peppers, a pot of hush puppies (balls of deep-fried corn bread) and an incredible Creole jambalaya. Needless to say it was impossible to reach the bottom of any of these dishes.

restoration hong kong

As our first choice of wine wasn’t available, we were given free dessert – now that’s good service! We simply couldn’t resist trying the ‘ridiculousness’, a chunky chocolate chip cookie ice cream sandwich, drizzled in chocolate sauce. The name and description suggested it would be ridiculously good, but actually we were a little underwhelmed, as the cookie was a little too hard; with an almost half-cooked gooey chocolate chip cookie this truly would be ridiculously amazing.

restoration hong kong

The pumpkin pie was a special and isn’t normally on the menu, so, again, we obviously had to try it. The base was perfectly crunchy and the sweet pumpkin custard deliciously creamy. Maybe Restoration should consider putting this on the regular menu.

Service was excellent throughout the meal (obviously made the more so by the free desserts!). What’s even better is that service charge isn’t added to the bill, meaning we were actually more willing to tip. When it comes to prices, no, Restoration is not cheap, as without dessert we paid around $500 each, including a bottle of wine and a tip. However, we must remember its prime location, and I can guarantee that even if your bill gives you a bit of a shock, you will be filled to the brim with delicious, real, soul-warming food.

Restoration

1/F, 63 Wyndham Street
Central
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2536 0183

www.restoration.hk

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The Shed, London

3 Dec

the shed restaurant london

One of the things I miss most about England is the countryside; farms and open expanses of greenery are not often seen in Hong Kong, at least where I live. Even though newly opened London resto The Shed is in Notting Hill, far from farms and countryside, it feels as if you have literally stepped into a country shed (albeit a rather glamorous one).

The Shed was set up by brothers Richard and Oliver Gladwin, as manager and chef respectively, whilst the third and youngest brother Gregory works at the family farm in Nutbourne, West Sussex, from which most of the restaurant’s delicious fresh produce comes.

the shed restaurant london

From the outside, you would definitely be forgiven for mistaking the building with a garden shed, given its white wooden façade. The interior is decorated with pitch forks, tables are made from barrels or reclaimed wood, and there is even the bonnet of a tractor hanging above the bar, making you want to put on your very best ‘Farmer Joe’ accent when ordering a drink. Nevertheless, it also has a warm (rather too warm) cottagey feel that encourages you to stay there for hours and avoid the cold outdoors. I loved the added touches like the lumberjack shirts and leather tool belts worn by the waiters, which really complete the look

The Shed holds one of my favourite philosophies, that of ‘sharing is caring’. The menu, which changes daily according to what’s in season, can probably be described as ‘British tapas’, consisting of a variety of small plates designed to be shared, making sure evil Food Envy stays far, far away.

the shed restaurant london

Our first ‘mouthful’, from the section of the menu with the same name, didn’t particularly impress us. Although the endive with pear and blue cheese sounded tasty, it was a little heavy on the pear and light on the cheese.

the shed restaurant london

However, the chorizo patty was incredible, both in texture and taste. The rich, salty chorizo was topped with a humble dollop of egg mayo, bringing it back to its roots and creating a remarkable dish. We just wished we had ordered more than one mouthful each!

The Shed’s salami, made at Nutbourne Farm, was of the highest quality and paired perfectly with the homemade bread. The only thing I was slightly unsure of was the anchovy butter…

the shed restaurant london

Why I have never had goat’s cheese paired with hazelnuts is beyond me; after tasting The Shed’s pan-fried goat’s cheese with hazelnuts, honey and thyme, I was in cheese heaven and swore to always eat goat’s cheese with hazelnuts from that moment on. We were advised that 2.5 main courses under ‘slow cooking’ or ‘fast cooking’ would suffice per person – so we ordered two of everything, of course.

the shed restaurant london

The venison chipolatas with Shed mustard were cooked exactly to my liking: perfectly bronzed on the outside and deliciously juicy on the inside. The rich, gamey flavour was further enhanced by the homemade mustard so that this was actually the only dish I could have done without having ordered a second helping of…. although I happily ate a second chipolata anyway!

the shed restaurant london

I loved the girolles, thyme crumpet and labneh cheese, particularly the latter, which added a wonderful creaminess to this hearty and comforting dish.

the shed restaurant london

My absolute favourite, however, were without a doubt the lamb chips, served with a generous dollop of spiced harissa. These two cylinders of beautifully tender lamb shank, coated in crispy breadcrumbs were to die for; we were all relieved there was another plate to come when the first sadly ended.

Simply because a meal cannot end on lamb alone, we shared two desserts between us: Apple tart tatin and cranberry suet roly poly. The former was decadently sweet, with a perfectly crisp base, unusually yet tastily paired with poppyseed ice cream.

the shed restaurant london

Having originally ordered a chocolate brownie, Richard insisted we must try his roly poly instead, something I would never normally order. Richard was absolutely right: the roly poly was utterly divine. The cake was amazingly light and fluffy, and the slightly tart cranberry compote on top transformed this traditional, yet often forgotten dessert into something I would want to order time and time again.

shed restaurant london

Prices at The Shed aren’t too steep at all; for lots of tasty food, a ‘daily loosener’ each (containing gin, white wine, rosehip and soda - sounds bizarre but tasted amazing) and a bottle of wine, we paid a mere £35 per head (around HKD400), and were also given a cute little packet of seeds to take away and try to make our own farm. With its excellent and friendly service, warm, inviting interiors and of course wholesome, delicious and real food, brought from the farm to your table, it is definitely worth hanging out in this Shed.

The Shed

122 Palace Gardens Terrace
Notting Hill
W8, London

Tel: +44 (0) 20 7229 4024

www.theshed-restaurant.com

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The Thinkers Balcony, London

27 Nov

the thinkers balcony secret supper club londonDo we ever really think about what it is we are eating and why we are eating that particular thing? Of course we think about how much we enjoy that food (hopefully), but most of the time, eating is never really a very meditative experience. Ilyas Kassam, an old university friend and now a writer of philosophy, begs to differ, believing that food can indeed be tied to thought. Taking this a step further, by associating food with the specific thoughts of well-known philosophers, Ilyas set up The Thinkers Balcony, a secret supper club, to encourage his diners to ‘engage with their desires, their beliefs, and of course their stomachs!’

the thinkers balcony supper club london

The Thinkers Balcony is not like any private kitchen we know in Hong Kong; it is located in a beautiful traditional London town house in Notting Hill, in fact in Ilyas’ very own living room. The room is artistically decorated, with a gramophone, stacks of philosophical books, unusual hats, and most importantly a low table made from old wine cases, around which diners sit on cushions on the floor. As we sipped on glasses of Champagne (it’s BYOB – it would have been rude not to!) whilst we waited for the food to be presented, we took in our surroundings and knew we were in for an unforgettable experience.

the thinkers balcony supper club london

Normally, diners coming to The Thinkers Balcony are aware of who the philosopher inspiring their meal is before they begin their feast. Ilyas had something different in store for us, however; our meal was entitled Mystery and the Unknown: An Existential Adventure of the Stomach, so the philosophy was not revealed until the end of the meal. Until then, each course led us on an inquisitive journey where we were encouraged to think really hard (seriously hard in fact) about what the thought governing the meal could be…

the thinkers balcony supper club londonThe first course, or the ‘prelude’, was Bergamot Ponzu Oyster with Ikura. I’m not always enamoured by oysters, yet I definitely was by these. The citrusy flavours of the bergamot and ponzu shone through and contrasted with the delicate chamomile leaf oil to create a delicious yet not thunder-stealing backdrop for the oyster.

the thinkers balcony supper club london

‘Chapter 1’ was an incredible Japanese Tuna Tartare beautifully presented with edible flowers. With strong hints of sesame, buttery chunks of avocado and of course melt-in-the-mouth tuna, all you could hear around the table was the sound of delighted diners and cutlery scooping up every last crumb.

the thinkers balcony supper club london

the thinkers balcony supper club london

Our main course, ‘Chapter 2’, was Smoked Cognac Chipotle Beef and Tamago Donburi. As you can tell, Ilyas takes most of his inspiration from Japanese cuisine (and quite rightly too, as it’s one of my favourites). This dish arrived in three parts: first the sticky rice topped with tamago (Japanese omelette) and sesame, followed by a wooden board laden with rare chunks of steak that caused a tablewide round of ‘oooohs’, and finished off with a jug of chipotle sauce. Although the beef was a little chewy, it was beautifully infused with cognac, which tasted even better with a generous dash of the smoky, slightly spicy chipotle sauce.

the thinkers balcony supper club london

‘Chapter 3’ was dessert: Black Truffle Ice Cream with Argan Baked Fig served on a pumpkin, date and hazelnut ‘sand’. Putting truffle in a dessert is a very brave move, as it isn’t to everyone’s taste. So, although there were a few confused and perhaps displeased palates around the room, those who did like it (including me!) made up for the haters and made sure every plate was licked clean. The combination of the unique flavours and textures really demonstrated Ilyas’ passion and skill in the kitchen.

the thinkers balcony supper club london

Last but most certainly not least, for the ‘Epilogue’, we were presented with a plate of homemade Saffron Chocolates, the perfect end to a delicious meal. I wish I could have taken a box of these home with me.

the thinkers balcony supper club london

Aside from the Champagne and wine we had brought ourselves, we were also served some exceptional teas from Ilyas’ vast collection from around the world; a unique touch to complement such a fun and adventurous meal.

After we had racked our brains to try and determine who the philosopher behind our feast was, we lifted our plates to reveal the absurd answer. I’m not going to give the secret away, just in case Ilyas uses this idea again, but I can tell you that it definitely surprised us and made us think.

Dinners at The Thinkers Balcony occur roughly every three weeks and cost between £20 and £40 per ticket (HKD240-480) depending on the nature of the meal and number of courses. You can be added to the mailing list to find out about upcoming events by entering your email address here. There are only six tickets each time, so make sure you get yours early. You will meet some interesting people, eat some incredible food and be wowed by how philosophy can be reflected in what we eat…

The Thinkers Balcony

Notting Hill (exact location will be given when tickets are purchased)

http://thethinkersbalcony.com

Contact: [email protected]

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Wild Grass

19 Nov

 

 

wild grass hong kongThe global organic food craze is taking Hong Kong by storm, as more and more restaurants are seeking to provide their customers with nothing but the best quality organic food. Brand new restaurant Wild Grass on Arbuthnot Road is doing exactly this, serving ‘real food the way it should be – fresh ingredients prepared simply’.

As I walked up the beautiful tiled staircase into the adorably decorated restaurant, I already knew I would love it. The scent of aromatherapy candles and orange blossom immediately filled the room as I made my way to the bar to sip on a refreshing Wild & Fresh Cucumber Cocktail – the perfect antidote to a long Monday in the office.

wild grass hong kong

Wild Grass, set up by multi-restaurateur and chef Jean Paul Gauci (with restaurants such as Casa Lisboa, Cococabana and Bistro Manchu under his belt), is not only serving eco-friendly food, but also uses reclaimed, recycled wood from all over the world, giving the whole place a relaxed, cottage-like feel with mis-matching yet gorgeous furniture. The restaurant works with art galleries around Hong Kong, showcasing some unique pieces of art; yet even more unique is the restaurant’s resident artist, who creates his modern paintings while you eat.

The seasonal menu, which varies daily depending on what’s freshly available, follows the ‘farm to table’ concept, using mostly locally sourced, sustainable and 70-80% organic food.

Chef Jean-Paul grew up helping his father prepare bread in his bakery, first in Corsica and then in London, so naturally the bread we were served was delicious, made the more so by the herb butter and goat’s cheese butter, both of which are made in-house.

wild grass hong kongOur first of the starters was finely diced Scottish ocean trout with capers and whiskey sour dressing, topped with perfect quail’s eggs and served with a fresh bread roll. The tender chunks of trout melted beautifully in the mouth, yet for me there was a little too much dill, which overpowered the taste of the fish.

wild grass hong kong

I’m normally not overly fond of kidneys, a sentiment shared around the table, yet these kidneys with bacon, malt vinegar, celeriac purée and onion were delicious; they were wonderfully tender without that overriding offal taste.

wild grass hong kong

My favourite of the starters however, was the baked goat’s cheese on bacon puff pastry with beetroot. The cheese was lovely and creamy, contrasted with the flaky pastry and sweet, juicy beetroot: amazing.

wild grass hong kong

Moving onto the mains, the roasted halibut with fermented garlic came beautifully presented and tasted divine, with perfectly flaky fish and amazing slow-roasted garlic that had become a sweet paste just right for spreading over the fish.

wild grass hong kong

The suckling pig with apple, parsnips and deep mustard had been cooked sous-vide for 16 hours before being tied together and roasted, leaving it exceptionally tender and juicy. The sweet flavours of apple and thyme were reflective of the cooler autumn days we have finally been blessed with.

wild grass hong kong

As the slow-grilled rump with basil peppercorn relish was served, there were gasps of delight all around the table. Having been cooked on a low heat for six hours, the OBE organic Australian beef was amazingly tender, served atop a bed of thin chips soaked in the beef’s own jus, which were impossible to resist.

wild grass hong kong

Last of the mains was a five-hour stewed organic beef shin topped with steamed goats cheese dumplings. This hearty stew was the ultimate comfort food that instantly made me smile…

wild grass hong kong

…A smile that continued throughout the farm cheese plate, laden with Gouda, Bleu d’Auverge, Brie and Liverot, sprinkled with prunes, apricots, raisins and figs. I don’t think I could live without cheese.

wild grass hong kong

We had been complaining about being full even before the cheese was served; yet upon laying eyes on the three desserts, our second stomachs appeared out of nowhere. Firstly the crème brûlée tart, a crumbly layer of biscuit topped with soft buttery custard and a thick layer of burnt sugar, was a divine modern take on the traditional version we all know and love.

wild grass hong kong

Following this came a stewed apple turnover with vanilla cream. Hints of cinnamon amidst the sweet, delicately crispy pastry were lovely, whilst I would have much preferred it to be served with a scoop of thick vanilla ice cream.

wild grass hong kong

Finally, my favourite of the three desserts, was a hot rhubarb oatmeal crumble with dairy frozen cream. Although the latter was a little confusing, this dessert offered generous helpings of both crumble and fruit that put it up there with some of the best crumbles I have ever had.

Service at Wild Grass is not yet perfect, but it has only been open a couple of weeks. Prices for individual main courses hover around the $250 mark, yet you can get a 3-course set lunch for $220 or a 3-course set dinner for $390 (where you can choose any three dishes off the menu), which, for such delicious organic food brought straight from the farm to your table, is an absolute bargain, I’d say. Wild Grass, you will most definitely be seeing more of me.

Wild Grass

1/F, 4-8 Arbuthnot Road
Central
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2810 1189

www.wildgrass.hk

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Spasso

16 Nov

spasso hong kong

DiVino Group is obviously known for its Wyndham Street restaurants DiVino and Goccia, and of course newbie DiVino Patio in Wan Chai (I’m still dreaming about that burrata…), yet Spasso, one of the group’s two restaurants on the ‘dark side’, has received much less love.

All this is changing, however, as Puglian Chef Antonio Totaro has joined the scene, bringing with him a vast book of experience from working at the highest Michelin-rated restaurant in Southern Italy, Don Alfonso 1890, to cooking for Hollywood stars such as Danny DeVito, Mike Tyson and Monica Bellucci, to working as a private chef for billionaires in the Maldives, Monaco, Moscow and Geneva.

spasso hong kong

Spasso spans 8,500 square feet in Harbour City’s Ocean Centre, including a lovely terrace overlooking the harbour. Inside, the décor is elegant and modern, using clean white shades set against marble and wood. I couldn’t help but notice the fresh fish station where diners can choose their fish before it is carved up in front of them to make gorgeously fresh carpaccio. This is something Chef Antonio insisted on bringing to Spasso, given his Puglian roots.

spasso hong kon

In order to taste as many things as possible on the menu, we were served small tasting portions, so if you’re looking at these photos thinking these dishes would never fill you up, worry not, for the real versions are double the size!

spasso hong kong

The first dish in our feast was a slow-cooked premium Lofeten Island cod fish, served with potatoes, capers and black olives, on a bed of crisp rocket leaves. The flakes of fish were so flavoursome and tender, and due to their rather saline quality, it would be easy to mistake them with Spanish-style bacalao. The contrast of the rich, salty olives and slightly bitter rocket paired with the lovely cod made for an excellent start to the meal.

Making the most of Chef Antonio’s inherent love of seafood, next up was a tuna loin marinated with ginger, lemon and orange zest, served with citrus and peppermint-infused pea purée and roasted beetroot. The wonderful contrasting textures, radiant colours and incredibly fresh flavours completely explain why this is one of the chef’s signature dishes.

spasso hong kong

One of my favourite dishes of the night was the tortelli with burrata cheese. The handmade pasta was the perfect, slightly al dente consistency, bursting full of creamy burrata. A blob of fresh stracciatella di bufala on top was heavenly, whilst a simple drizzle of pesto and cherry tomato sauce served to bring out the delicate flavours. I could have easily gobbled up a whole plate of this.

spasso hong kong

I’m normally a little frightened of sea urchin, yet the chef’s signature sea urchin risotto with Sicilian red prawns and Sicilian orange was divine. It had just the right level of creaminess and the carnaroli rice had the perfect bite to it, topped with a generous lump of melt-in-the-mouth sea urchin and tender little prawns hidden amongst the hearty grains of rice. Flavour-wise, however, it was a little on the bland side, yet nothing that a sprinkling of salt couldn’t fix.

spasso hong kong

The crispy Berkshire breeds Kurobuta slow-roasted pork belly was lovely and comforting. Each bite was beautifully tender, as the juicy meat and fat became one. Served alongside the pork was a sweet pumpkin purée and cannellini beans, all finished with a delicate espresso glaze and a coffee bean to enhance the flavour.

spasso hong kong

Our selection of mini-desserts was a feast for both the eyes and that beloved second stomach: chocolate ice cream cones, tiramisu, chocolate and raspberry tarts, and baked beignets. Despite the fact that we had four desserts each, they were all wonderfully light, particularly the tiramisu, which was strangely yet pleasantly lacking the lady fingers and was only delicately dusted with chocolate and coffee. My absolute favourite, however, was the beignet, which was lovely and crispy on the outside and filled to the brim with delicious vanilla-infused crème pastissière: heavenly.

Prices at Spasso are slightly steeper than the group’s other ventures, with starters from $128 and mains between $168 and $450. Personally I would pick a casual dinner at DiVino Patio over Spasso, yet if a day of shopping in Harbour City leaves you craving some scrumptious Italian food with true and fresh Mediterranean flavours, where you can while away a few hours gazing at our beautiful harbour, then Spasso is definitely worth a try.

Spasso

Shop 403, Level 4, Ocean Centre
Harbour City
17 Canton Road
Tsim Sha Tsui
Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2730 8027

www.divinogroup.com/restaurants/spasso/about-us/

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